I have a six-year-old male neutered Whippet. He developed a phobia of fireworks and thunder several years ago. This has escalated so that now he is also frightened of rain. Each time it rains heavily when he is indoors he will pant, shake and pace. This becomes so stressed he hardly eats and often vomits if he does eat. To make matters worse he has a grade 4 heart murmur so I worry at the stress he is placing on his heart.
I have tried Skullcap and Valerian tablets, rescue remedy, DAP diffusers, collars and room sprays. I have tried a supplement called Zylkene, and also seen my vet and been on two courses of Clomicalm on two separate years for three months - October through to December. I think the Colmicalm helps a little, but nothing else seems to help much at all. I try to be matter of fact and never make a big thing of his fear. I have tried sound tapes and taking his mind off things with treats, toys and training, but he is generally too stressed to respond. Giving him a 'den' (cage covered over) seems to help him a little, yet strangely he can hear gunshot and thunder while out walking without any signs of fear and his only problem with rain when outside is being miserable because he is wet and cold.
Does anyone have any other ideas I might try?
Frances Wrigley, by email
May issue
May issue
Monday, 21 September 2009
Friday, 18 September 2009
Something is bugging our Havanese
My husband and I recently had swine flu. I have recovered, but my husband is still coughing. We sometimes give our leftover chicken or other protein to our Havanese and Golden Retriever after dinner. In the last 24 hours the Havanese has developed a very hoarse raspy cough, but otherwise is acting fine and is not running a temperature. Could she be getting the flu, too?
Diane K, by email
On the basis of my current understanding, the simple answer to your question is ‘no’, assuming your question to be ‘Could my Havanese have caught swine ‘flu from us?’
There are two types of influenza virus, named A and B. Type B affects humans whereas Type A viruses can also affect certain animals, although usually in a species-specific fashion. The virus involved in the current Swine ‘flu pandemic is thought to be the result of a pig influenza virus mixing with a human influenza virus to produce a new strain. Because this is a new strain, there is no immunity to the virus in the human population from having had a bout of ‘flu previously.
To date, there has only been human-to-human transmission of this swine ‘flu or H1N1 virus. It is generally recognized, however, that influenza viruses can readily change, hence all the worry when cases of avian ‘flu were first identified in humans. We have to hope that this virus retains all its current characteristics.
Type A influenza viruses can cause illness in dogs, and cats, but transmission to humans has not been identified. An outbreak of Canine Influenza Virus (CIV) occurred in Florida in 2004 and has affected dogs across several states in the US since then. A vaccine is now available in the US to limit the spread of this highly contagious virus which, fortunately, is rarely fatal. The illness it causes is quite similar to kennel cough here, and it is kennel cough which would head my list of possible explanations for your Havanese being ill.
Kennel cough is a coverall term for an infection characterized by a honking cough. The patient often brings up small pools of white froth. There are various causal agents, so although there are vaccines available against Bordetella bronchiseptica and parainfluenza virus they will be ineffective against other causes. A kennel cough infection is readily transmitted between dogs; an outbreak under kenneling conditions is classic if a dog is taken in who happens to be incubating it, hence the name kennel cough. Likewise, it can be picked up at dog club, dog shows, or meeting other dogs in the park, for example, so it could be said to be behaving like the common cold with a wide range of causative agents.
The patient may run a fever and therefore be under-the-weather, but more often than not he or she is otherwise well apart from this cough which can persist for one or two weeks. As vets, we do not prescribe antibiotics unless we suspect a secondary bacterial infection, and perhaps if the patient is frail or elderly. Cough suppressants and expectorants have a limited place in treatment because the cough is the body’s natural response to the effects of the virus.
Isolation is a priority and mainstay of treatment to limit the spread of the infection to other dogs. If you ring a veterinary practice to book an appointment for your dog to see a vet because of a cough, then it is likely you will be asked to leave your dog in the car. Only yesterday, I examined two dogs out in the car park with suspected kennel cough – great excuse for a breath of fresh air!
If your Havanese does indeed have kennel cough, then a more immediate likelihood is that your Golden Retriever will also develop the infection!
Alison Logan, vet
Diane K, by email
On the basis of my current understanding, the simple answer to your question is ‘no’, assuming your question to be ‘Could my Havanese have caught swine ‘flu from us?’
There are two types of influenza virus, named A and B. Type B affects humans whereas Type A viruses can also affect certain animals, although usually in a species-specific fashion. The virus involved in the current Swine ‘flu pandemic is thought to be the result of a pig influenza virus mixing with a human influenza virus to produce a new strain. Because this is a new strain, there is no immunity to the virus in the human population from having had a bout of ‘flu previously.
To date, there has only been human-to-human transmission of this swine ‘flu or H1N1 virus. It is generally recognized, however, that influenza viruses can readily change, hence all the worry when cases of avian ‘flu were first identified in humans. We have to hope that this virus retains all its current characteristics.
Type A influenza viruses can cause illness in dogs, and cats, but transmission to humans has not been identified. An outbreak of Canine Influenza Virus (CIV) occurred in Florida in 2004 and has affected dogs across several states in the US since then. A vaccine is now available in the US to limit the spread of this highly contagious virus which, fortunately, is rarely fatal. The illness it causes is quite similar to kennel cough here, and it is kennel cough which would head my list of possible explanations for your Havanese being ill.
Kennel cough is a coverall term for an infection characterized by a honking cough. The patient often brings up small pools of white froth. There are various causal agents, so although there are vaccines available against Bordetella bronchiseptica and parainfluenza virus they will be ineffective against other causes. A kennel cough infection is readily transmitted between dogs; an outbreak under kenneling conditions is classic if a dog is taken in who happens to be incubating it, hence the name kennel cough. Likewise, it can be picked up at dog club, dog shows, or meeting other dogs in the park, for example, so it could be said to be behaving like the common cold with a wide range of causative agents.
The patient may run a fever and therefore be under-the-weather, but more often than not he or she is otherwise well apart from this cough which can persist for one or two weeks. As vets, we do not prescribe antibiotics unless we suspect a secondary bacterial infection, and perhaps if the patient is frail or elderly. Cough suppressants and expectorants have a limited place in treatment because the cough is the body’s natural response to the effects of the virus.
Isolation is a priority and mainstay of treatment to limit the spread of the infection to other dogs. If you ring a veterinary practice to book an appointment for your dog to see a vet because of a cough, then it is likely you will be asked to leave your dog in the car. Only yesterday, I examined two dogs out in the car park with suspected kennel cough – great excuse for a breath of fresh air!
If your Havanese does indeed have kennel cough, then a more immediate likelihood is that your Golden Retriever will also develop the infection!
Alison Logan, vet
Can you help sniff out this product?
For the first time in many years I have a puppy, a Beagle. I would like to use the same method for housetraining as I did many years ago but I can't remember the name of the product.
It was a small bottle of a concentrated aroma that encourages dogs to wee on the newspaper or where ever you sprinkle it. Does anyone know what this is called and where I can get it.
Mr Hogarth, near Aberdeen, Scotland
I don't think Potty Rock will have existed when you last had a dog.
The US inventor had two dogs male and female and became angry at that his dogs were destroying his beautiful lawn with urine burn spots, he looked for a product to solve his problem and found nothing that worked so he set about researching and developing the Potty Rock in 2002, now having won a number of inventor awards in the US in 2005/2006 launched the product a year later, with huge success having sold over 100,000 units.
As the manufacturers in the UK of the Potty Rock we have large number of puppy and adult dog owners contact us with many problems with toilet training.
POTTY ROCK is a healey scented thin briquette 7''x 4'' that attracts all dogs and puppies male and females to toilet.
This product allows the dog owner to choose the area in the garden for their dog to do their toilet. Great for gardeners too, as it limits those ugly urine burn stains found dotted all around the lawn, the soiled area being confined to a small area far away from the children's play areas.
By following 'our four-step guide to training your dog to Potty Rock' assists the dog owner to toilet train their dog in a very simple method, the main thing to remember is to praise the dog and have patience and to put the time aside.
Your dog will soon associate the stone smell with toileting after a few visits.
Please visit www.pottyrock.co.uk for more detailed information.
For puppies we have found the Potty Rock a great asset, lay out the newspaper in the kitchen as you do and place the Potty Rock to one corner the puppy will soon use the Centre of the newspaper( have you laid newspaper down on the kitchen floor only to find your puppy poops and pees everywhere but on the newspaper) With the auwfull clean up that follows.
Once you have achieved this take the Potty Rock out to the garden and then follow our four step guide.
I do hope your readers find this a far more helpful aid to toileting
Kindest regards
David George
Sales Director
Greentouch Pet Products Ltd
greentouch@btconnect.com
Tel: 01525 721218
It was a small bottle of a concentrated aroma that encourages dogs to wee on the newspaper or where ever you sprinkle it. Does anyone know what this is called and where I can get it.
Mr Hogarth, near Aberdeen, Scotland
I don't think Potty Rock will have existed when you last had a dog.
The US inventor had two dogs male and female and became angry at that his dogs were destroying his beautiful lawn with urine burn spots, he looked for a product to solve his problem and found nothing that worked so he set about researching and developing the Potty Rock in 2002, now having won a number of inventor awards in the US in 2005/2006 launched the product a year later, with huge success having sold over 100,000 units.
As the manufacturers in the UK of the Potty Rock we have large number of puppy and adult dog owners contact us with many problems with toilet training.
POTTY ROCK is a healey scented thin briquette 7''x 4'' that attracts all dogs and puppies male and females to toilet.
This product allows the dog owner to choose the area in the garden for their dog to do their toilet. Great for gardeners too, as it limits those ugly urine burn stains found dotted all around the lawn, the soiled area being confined to a small area far away from the children's play areas.
By following 'our four-step guide to training your dog to Potty Rock' assists the dog owner to toilet train their dog in a very simple method, the main thing to remember is to praise the dog and have patience and to put the time aside.
Your dog will soon associate the stone smell with toileting after a few visits.
Please visit www.pottyrock.co.uk for more detailed information.
For puppies we have found the Potty Rock a great asset, lay out the newspaper in the kitchen as you do and place the Potty Rock to one corner the puppy will soon use the Centre of the newspaper( have you laid newspaper down on the kitchen floor only to find your puppy poops and pees everywhere but on the newspaper) With the auwfull clean up that follows.
Once you have achieved this take the Potty Rock out to the garden and then follow our four step guide.
I do hope your readers find this a far more helpful aid to toileting
Kindest regards
David George
Sales Director
Greentouch Pet Products Ltd
greentouch@btconnect.com
Tel: 01525 721218
Wednesday, 16 September 2009
In the genes?
My German Shepherd, Monty, suffers from Anul Furunculosis, for which he gets Nizora half an hour before food and Atopica two hours after food - twice per day.
We were told that this disease is genetic in the German Shepherd breed. Is this correct? Is he on the best of treatment and should he be fed a special diet?
Monty is on his second lot of treatment in the last 12 months and we have been told the outlook is not good. Please could someone advise us and give us some hope.
Mr J S Booth, Barnsley, Yorkshire
Richard Allport advises:
Anal furunculosis is thought to be a hereditary autoimmune disease and is a condition seen almost exclusively in German Shepherd Dogs, or GSD crosses. An autoimmune disease is one in which the immune system goes haywire and mistakenly attacks normal healthy body tissue – in this case the area around the anus.
It is not, however, quite as simple as that. The anatomy of a GSD predisposes to the condition – the tail is held down and very close against the anal area, rather than held up as in may breeds, so there is little natural ventilation reaching the anal region. Anal furunculosis often seems to be associated with other conditions such as colitis, pancreatic insufficiency and hypothyroidism. It is evidently a very complex problem.
Treatment can include antibiotics, surgery or cryosurgery to remove diseased tissue, steroids and other immune suppressive drugs such as Atopica (Cyclosporin). Nizoral is often prescribed alongside Atopica, not because it has a therapeutic effect on the furunculosis as such, but because it means a lower dose of Atopica can be given. As Atopica is a very expensive drug, this is useful from an economic point of view. None of this treatment is curative, and drug side-effects from the suppression of the immune system are always likely.
Diet is a controversial topic. There are some dogs that seem to benefit from a wheat free diet. Indeed, some benefit even more from a totally carbohydrate free diet. Naturally, any diet that produces formed but softish stools may help a dog that has this problem, since passing stools can be painful. Adding Psyllium husks to the diet can help achieve this. I find that dietary supplements such as Zinc, Vitamin E and Aloe Vera can be helpful.
So my advice for Monty, or any dog afflicted by anal furunculosis, is to feed a wheat free and low carbohydrate diet, with Psyllium husks, Vitamin E, Zinc and Aloe Vera as beneficial supplements. Also to bathe affected areas several times a day with salt water, and apply Manuka honey which helps promote healing and keep infection at bay. Try and avoid immunosuppressive drugs if at all possible, maybe look at herbal and homeopathic medicines as an adjunct or an alternative. Avoid vaccination or any other drugs or treatments that might further damage the immune system.
I do wish Monty good luck and good health for the future.
Gail Gwesyn-Pryce, Dogs Today Breed Advisor, says…
The cause of anal furunculosis is not known but it appears to be connected to irritable bowel syndrome and autoimmune conditions. Drug therapy is usually only a temporary cure and the condition often needs freezing or surgery. The condition can also be seen between the toes but this is much more difficult to treat.
The anal type is rather like fistula in people, in or around the anus which on close examination can be seen as tiny holes and it is when it takes hold underneath that freezing or surgery are recommended. Homeopathic remedies have been found to be very helpful in the early stages. I would strongly advise that you look up Canine Health Concern who can give you lots of help regarding general health problems and a resource link for such things as garlic and colloidal silver, both of which could be beneficial.
The Royal Veterinary College is undergoing a research project to try and identify the genes involved. A leaflet on the subject can be obtained from the German Shepherd Owners Information Centre. Contact Chris on 01223 298216, email Sherak@tesco.net or Dorothy on 01277 220933, email Dorothy-Cullum@btinternet.com.
As for diet I would always recommend a good fresh, raw food diet for all GSDs – firmer stools would be important so that no residue is left behind to further compromise the anus and of course chemical diets can have an effect on the immune system. I suspect that Monty has other medical problems, perhaps dermatitis as this often goes hand in hand.
I have no first-hand experience of this condition so it is difficult for me to comment further, however I believe there is also a strain of Leonbergers that carry this condition so it may be worth contacting their breed club to see if they have any suggestions.
Please make sure you inform Monty’s breeder so that he/she is aware of this condition in their line so they can take steps to eliminate it from their breeding programme.
We were told that this disease is genetic in the German Shepherd breed. Is this correct? Is he on the best of treatment and should he be fed a special diet?
Monty is on his second lot of treatment in the last 12 months and we have been told the outlook is not good. Please could someone advise us and give us some hope.
Mr J S Booth, Barnsley, Yorkshire
Richard Allport advises:
Anal furunculosis is thought to be a hereditary autoimmune disease and is a condition seen almost exclusively in German Shepherd Dogs, or GSD crosses. An autoimmune disease is one in which the immune system goes haywire and mistakenly attacks normal healthy body tissue – in this case the area around the anus.
It is not, however, quite as simple as that. The anatomy of a GSD predisposes to the condition – the tail is held down and very close against the anal area, rather than held up as in may breeds, so there is little natural ventilation reaching the anal region. Anal furunculosis often seems to be associated with other conditions such as colitis, pancreatic insufficiency and hypothyroidism. It is evidently a very complex problem.
Treatment can include antibiotics, surgery or cryosurgery to remove diseased tissue, steroids and other immune suppressive drugs such as Atopica (Cyclosporin). Nizoral is often prescribed alongside Atopica, not because it has a therapeutic effect on the furunculosis as such, but because it means a lower dose of Atopica can be given. As Atopica is a very expensive drug, this is useful from an economic point of view. None of this treatment is curative, and drug side-effects from the suppression of the immune system are always likely.
Diet is a controversial topic. There are some dogs that seem to benefit from a wheat free diet. Indeed, some benefit even more from a totally carbohydrate free diet. Naturally, any diet that produces formed but softish stools may help a dog that has this problem, since passing stools can be painful. Adding Psyllium husks to the diet can help achieve this. I find that dietary supplements such as Zinc, Vitamin E and Aloe Vera can be helpful.
So my advice for Monty, or any dog afflicted by anal furunculosis, is to feed a wheat free and low carbohydrate diet, with Psyllium husks, Vitamin E, Zinc and Aloe Vera as beneficial supplements. Also to bathe affected areas several times a day with salt water, and apply Manuka honey which helps promote healing and keep infection at bay. Try and avoid immunosuppressive drugs if at all possible, maybe look at herbal and homeopathic medicines as an adjunct or an alternative. Avoid vaccination or any other drugs or treatments that might further damage the immune system.
I do wish Monty good luck and good health for the future.
Gail Gwesyn-Pryce, Dogs Today Breed Advisor, says…
The cause of anal furunculosis is not known but it appears to be connected to irritable bowel syndrome and autoimmune conditions. Drug therapy is usually only a temporary cure and the condition often needs freezing or surgery. The condition can also be seen between the toes but this is much more difficult to treat.
The anal type is rather like fistula in people, in or around the anus which on close examination can be seen as tiny holes and it is when it takes hold underneath that freezing or surgery are recommended. Homeopathic remedies have been found to be very helpful in the early stages. I would strongly advise that you look up Canine Health Concern who can give you lots of help regarding general health problems and a resource link for such things as garlic and colloidal silver, both of which could be beneficial.
The Royal Veterinary College is undergoing a research project to try and identify the genes involved. A leaflet on the subject can be obtained from the German Shepherd Owners Information Centre. Contact Chris on 01223 298216, email Sherak@tesco.net or Dorothy on 01277 220933, email Dorothy-Cullum@btinternet.com.
As for diet I would always recommend a good fresh, raw food diet for all GSDs – firmer stools would be important so that no residue is left behind to further compromise the anus and of course chemical diets can have an effect on the immune system. I suspect that Monty has other medical problems, perhaps dermatitis as this often goes hand in hand.
I have no first-hand experience of this condition so it is difficult for me to comment further, however I believe there is also a strain of Leonbergers that carry this condition so it may be worth contacting their breed club to see if they have any suggestions.
Please make sure you inform Monty’s breeder so that he/she is aware of this condition in their line so they can take steps to eliminate it from their breeding programme.
Monday, 14 September 2009
Trigger happy
I am the proud owner of a lovely caring rescued Border Collie cross. I am a carer to my elderly mother and every time I go to give my mum her inhaler, Murphy jumps up and whines pitifully at us. On most occasions he also makes a beeline for one of his toys. Is this normal behaviour?
Elisabeth Hurley, by email
Carol Price, trainer and behaviourist, advises:
Please rest assured that this is perfectly normal collie behaviour. Collies are an exceptionally reactive breed, and the things that can trigger them quickly into an excited state can range from the doorbell, phone or TV to owners coughing or sneezing or filing their nails, or a broom, mop or food blender. In fact - you name it! The trigger has just got to move quickly or make a distinct noise, or preferably both factors together.
Once excited, many collies will then have an urge to do something with their mouths - eg grab a toy or nip something or, if out, snatch at sticks, grass or even earth. This is purely instinctive behaviour, adapted from the classic offensive/defensive nip reflex sheepdogs need to have in order to work livestock, and protect themselves from being challenged by these animals. This instinct gets triggered as soon as the dog enters a more aroused or excited mental state.
Some collies will be highly reactive on this front, with a wide range of triggers that set them off. Others may have far more limited triggers they react to, or may barely possess this instinct at all. If you are not careful, however, what begins as an instinctive response to a specific trigger can then turn into a longer-term attention-seeking device, once the dog realises how much notice you take of its excitable behaviour.
For this reason it is important to nip such behaviour in the bud, and correct it, by calmly making your dog lie down, and stay still, the instant it starts. If you do not do this then one excitable reaction tends to lead to another and the dog can quickly wind itself up into a totally manic state in this way, drunk on adrenalin.
You do not say how much exercise you give your dog, but the kind of behaviour you describe in him is always more common in dogs who have not been given sufficient daily physical exercise and mental stimulation.
Elisabeth Hurley, by email
Carol Price, trainer and behaviourist, advises:
Please rest assured that this is perfectly normal collie behaviour. Collies are an exceptionally reactive breed, and the things that can trigger them quickly into an excited state can range from the doorbell, phone or TV to owners coughing or sneezing or filing their nails, or a broom, mop or food blender. In fact - you name it! The trigger has just got to move quickly or make a distinct noise, or preferably both factors together.
Once excited, many collies will then have an urge to do something with their mouths - eg grab a toy or nip something or, if out, snatch at sticks, grass or even earth. This is purely instinctive behaviour, adapted from the classic offensive/defensive nip reflex sheepdogs need to have in order to work livestock, and protect themselves from being challenged by these animals. This instinct gets triggered as soon as the dog enters a more aroused or excited mental state.
Some collies will be highly reactive on this front, with a wide range of triggers that set them off. Others may have far more limited triggers they react to, or may barely possess this instinct at all. If you are not careful, however, what begins as an instinctive response to a specific trigger can then turn into a longer-term attention-seeking device, once the dog realises how much notice you take of its excitable behaviour.
For this reason it is important to nip such behaviour in the bud, and correct it, by calmly making your dog lie down, and stay still, the instant it starts. If you do not do this then one excitable reaction tends to lead to another and the dog can quickly wind itself up into a totally manic state in this way, drunk on adrenalin.
You do not say how much exercise you give your dog, but the kind of behaviour you describe in him is always more common in dogs who have not been given sufficient daily physical exercise and mental stimulation.
Wednesday, 9 September 2009
Remember remember... how awful fireworks were last year!
Dear Think Tank
Firework night is fast approaching and I'm dreading it. My older dog is very noise phobic. He paces, drools, shakes, tries to hide or escape. It's heartbreaking. But this year I also have a new puppy, a Border Collie, and I really don't want her developing the same fears. Any suggestions as to what to do to get the Border Collie prepared. And is there anything I can do to help my Lurcher?
Jane Roberts, by Email
This is common problem and it is estimated that up to 1.6 million dogs suffer from noise phobias in the UK but during the fireworks season their noise phobias become more obvious. There are several steps that I would recommend; firstly don’t panic or cuddle or fuss your dog as this can make the problem worse as it only reassures the dog that there IS something wrong, so stay calm and try not to change your usual behaviour. Generally a dog will be comforted by being able to retreat to a safe place, so it can be a good idea to prepare somewhere suitable in advance. I would highly recommend using a herbal medicine called Scullcap and Valerian tablets as these are entirely safe and are very effective to calm dogs without sedating them. They should be given throughout the firework season, starting at least a week in advance, and increased to a high dose on the nights you know will be worse such as November 5th. Along with the herbal medicine you may also want to try a desensitization CD. You will need to start this well in advance but it can get your dogs desensitized to loud noises and fireworks and can be effective when used in combination with Scullcap and Valerian tablets. These measures will enable your dog to still be aware of the bangs and loud noises but not become concerned about them, and so enable them to cope much better.
I think the key here is try to desensitize your dogs and use a herbal medicine to help them stay calm, but it is most important for you not to give out the wrong signals to your dog that may increase its fear.
Roly Boughton, Dorwest Herbs
I have seen firework phobia from both sides of the table, so to speak. As a vet, I see a surge in requests for medication from mid-October, not helped by firework displays taking place on the weekends immediately before and after 5th November, as well as on Guy Fawkes night itself (let alone on random nights around this time). Also, eight years ago my parents-in-law adopted a JRT from rescue at the age of three years who came with a firework phobia, which has incidentally escalated into a phobia for all manner of sounds including thunder, rain drumming on the conservatory roof, strong winds, gun fire on the nearby army range etc etc.
I would agree with all that Roly Boughton has said. There are other strategies available as well, such as the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone (or DAP) as diffuserand/or collar, so I hope there will be a combination which will help. No two dogs are alike with regard to a firework phobia so there is not a ‘one size fits all’ solution. As with so many behavioural problems, it is not clear cut. I am glad you are aware of the risk of your puppy picking up on your dog’s phobia. It does need careful management.
Many years ago, the infamous yellow tablet of ACP was the mainstay of treatment but, being a sedative, it is rarely suggested now because it prevents the dog from being able to hide up or show other behavioural responses. Thankfully, there are now better prescription drugs available from veterinary surgeons to help.
I am always a little saddened when approached for advice on firework phobia just a few weeks before Guy Fawkes night. Management of a phobia needs time. Also, fireworks are used at so many other different times of the year: New Year, Chinese New Year, celebrations such as weddings and major birthdays, ‘Last night of the Proms’ concerts, military tattoos – the list goes on. There is always a fireworks display at our local sailing regatta in August.
In addition, as I mentioned with the JRT belonging to my parents-in-law, a fireworks phobia can become a more generalised noise phobia.
Alsion Logan, Vet
Firework night is fast approaching and I'm dreading it. My older dog is very noise phobic. He paces, drools, shakes, tries to hide or escape. It's heartbreaking. But this year I also have a new puppy, a Border Collie, and I really don't want her developing the same fears. Any suggestions as to what to do to get the Border Collie prepared. And is there anything I can do to help my Lurcher?
Jane Roberts, by Email
This is common problem and it is estimated that up to 1.6 million dogs suffer from noise phobias in the UK but during the fireworks season their noise phobias become more obvious. There are several steps that I would recommend; firstly don’t panic or cuddle or fuss your dog as this can make the problem worse as it only reassures the dog that there IS something wrong, so stay calm and try not to change your usual behaviour. Generally a dog will be comforted by being able to retreat to a safe place, so it can be a good idea to prepare somewhere suitable in advance. I would highly recommend using a herbal medicine called Scullcap and Valerian tablets as these are entirely safe and are very effective to calm dogs without sedating them. They should be given throughout the firework season, starting at least a week in advance, and increased to a high dose on the nights you know will be worse such as November 5th. Along with the herbal medicine you may also want to try a desensitization CD. You will need to start this well in advance but it can get your dogs desensitized to loud noises and fireworks and can be effective when used in combination with Scullcap and Valerian tablets. These measures will enable your dog to still be aware of the bangs and loud noises but not become concerned about them, and so enable them to cope much better.
I think the key here is try to desensitize your dogs and use a herbal medicine to help them stay calm, but it is most important for you not to give out the wrong signals to your dog that may increase its fear.
Roly Boughton, Dorwest Herbs
I have seen firework phobia from both sides of the table, so to speak. As a vet, I see a surge in requests for medication from mid-October, not helped by firework displays taking place on the weekends immediately before and after 5th November, as well as on Guy Fawkes night itself (let alone on random nights around this time). Also, eight years ago my parents-in-law adopted a JRT from rescue at the age of three years who came with a firework phobia, which has incidentally escalated into a phobia for all manner of sounds including thunder, rain drumming on the conservatory roof, strong winds, gun fire on the nearby army range etc etc.
I would agree with all that Roly Boughton has said. There are other strategies available as well, such as the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone (or DAP) as diffuserand/or collar, so I hope there will be a combination which will help. No two dogs are alike with regard to a firework phobia so there is not a ‘one size fits all’ solution. As with so many behavioural problems, it is not clear cut. I am glad you are aware of the risk of your puppy picking up on your dog’s phobia. It does need careful management.
Many years ago, the infamous yellow tablet of ACP was the mainstay of treatment but, being a sedative, it is rarely suggested now because it prevents the dog from being able to hide up or show other behavioural responses. Thankfully, there are now better prescription drugs available from veterinary surgeons to help.
I am always a little saddened when approached for advice on firework phobia just a few weeks before Guy Fawkes night. Management of a phobia needs time. Also, fireworks are used at so many other different times of the year: New Year, Chinese New Year, celebrations such as weddings and major birthdays, ‘Last night of the Proms’ concerts, military tattoos – the list goes on. There is always a fireworks display at our local sailing regatta in August.
In addition, as I mentioned with the JRT belonging to my parents-in-law, a fireworks phobia can become a more generalised noise phobia.
Alsion Logan, Vet
Tuesday, 8 September 2009
Foxy is looking a bit poxy
Dear Think Tank
I just love wild animals and I think my initial attraction to Shelties was probably due to the fact that I think they look a lot like little like foxes! When I moved to this house I was delighted to discover that a fox already regularly visited our garden and I started leaving out scraps for her as I suspect the previous resident did before. I have greatly enjoyed watching this beautiful fox from my window. Unfortunately, lately she's been looking a bit scrawny and poorly. I'm no vet, but it looks like mange to me - her coat is starting to look very grotty.
Whatcan do to help this poor, usually beautiful creature get better? And is there any chance that my Sheltie could now catch mange, too? Am I putting my dog at risk by putting food out for the fox? What should I be feeding the fox? I've been leaving out meaty bones and left over cooked meat. Are these okay?
Lucy Trent, Leatherhead, Surrey
Fox or sarcoptic mange would certainly be very high up on my list of possible explanations for this fox’s ‘mangy’ appearance. If that is the case, then your dog could well pick up the mite and develop signs of sarcoptic mange. It is well known that fox populations have increased in recent years in both rural and town environments. I would therefore suspect that having one fox visiting your garden probably means more in your immediate neighbourhood, so your dog could be at risk of contracting mange whenever you go out for walks anyhow.
It is not a very pleasant skin condition, both through causing the affected dog or fox to be very itchy as well as cosmetically with the fur loss and other effects on the coat and skin. It particularly affects the ears, elbows and hocks, armpits and tummy, because the mite likes skin with less of a fur covering. Classically, rubbing an ear between finger and thumb will cause an almost reflex movement with a hindlimb, as if to scratch at the ear.
It used to be very hard to treat sarcoptic mange because there was not a product specifically licensed for use in the dog. In fact, the treatment used (a cattle wormer) was not recommended in the border collie and Shetland sheepdog because adverse reactions had been reported.
Fortunately, the situation has changed in recent years so it might be worth considering treating your dog pre-emptively. In fact, you might even find that your current flea control strategy is already affording protection to your dog against sarcoptic mange. I would contact your vet for more specific advice, since it is likely you will be needing a prescription (POM-V) product.
Alison Logan, vet
This certainly sounds like mange. There are two courses to treat mange. The first is a drug that we use here at Wildlife Aid that is highly effective and takes just three weeks of actual medication, and then after a further rehabilitation period we release the fox back into the wild. This, however, MUST be done here, and cannot be administered in your garden as it is a very specific course of treatment. On the whole we prefer not to have to take a fox in unless absolutely vital as we are very strict about the need to avoid unnecessary human contact. As an alternative to the conventional drug, there is a homeopathic treatment which can be put in the fox's food, and it is reported to be very successful. Please get in touch with Wildlife Aid (09061 800132) for more information.
We have been dealing with foxes for over 30 years and have had numerous cases of mange that we have treated here at Wildlife Aid. I have always had dogs here and at no time has any of them caught mange. As far as feeding foxes is concerned, we always advise strongly against it as this lessens their instinct to hunt and means they get used to one easy food source, it also means that if you move away or go on holiday their food supply will abruptly cease, and besides which plenty of people don't like foxes and it is not uncommon for people to put down poison or to seek to do them harm in other ways.
Simon Cowell MBE, Wildlife Aid
To order the fox mange treatment from Wildlife Aid click here
I just love wild animals and I think my initial attraction to Shelties was probably due to the fact that I think they look a lot like little like foxes! When I moved to this house I was delighted to discover that a fox already regularly visited our garden and I started leaving out scraps for her as I suspect the previous resident did before. I have greatly enjoyed watching this beautiful fox from my window. Unfortunately, lately she's been looking a bit scrawny and poorly. I'm no vet, but it looks like mange to me - her coat is starting to look very grotty.
Whatcan do to help this poor, usually beautiful creature get better? And is there any chance that my Sheltie could now catch mange, too? Am I putting my dog at risk by putting food out for the fox? What should I be feeding the fox? I've been leaving out meaty bones and left over cooked meat. Are these okay?
Lucy Trent, Leatherhead, Surrey
Fox or sarcoptic mange would certainly be very high up on my list of possible explanations for this fox’s ‘mangy’ appearance. If that is the case, then your dog could well pick up the mite and develop signs of sarcoptic mange. It is well known that fox populations have increased in recent years in both rural and town environments. I would therefore suspect that having one fox visiting your garden probably means more in your immediate neighbourhood, so your dog could be at risk of contracting mange whenever you go out for walks anyhow.
It is not a very pleasant skin condition, both through causing the affected dog or fox to be very itchy as well as cosmetically with the fur loss and other effects on the coat and skin. It particularly affects the ears, elbows and hocks, armpits and tummy, because the mite likes skin with less of a fur covering. Classically, rubbing an ear between finger and thumb will cause an almost reflex movement with a hindlimb, as if to scratch at the ear.
It used to be very hard to treat sarcoptic mange because there was not a product specifically licensed for use in the dog. In fact, the treatment used (a cattle wormer) was not recommended in the border collie and Shetland sheepdog because adverse reactions had been reported.
Fortunately, the situation has changed in recent years so it might be worth considering treating your dog pre-emptively. In fact, you might even find that your current flea control strategy is already affording protection to your dog against sarcoptic mange. I would contact your vet for more specific advice, since it is likely you will be needing a prescription (POM-V) product.
Alison Logan, vet
This certainly sounds like mange. There are two courses to treat mange. The first is a drug that we use here at Wildlife Aid that is highly effective and takes just three weeks of actual medication, and then after a further rehabilitation period we release the fox back into the wild. This, however, MUST be done here, and cannot be administered in your garden as it is a very specific course of treatment. On the whole we prefer not to have to take a fox in unless absolutely vital as we are very strict about the need to avoid unnecessary human contact. As an alternative to the conventional drug, there is a homeopathic treatment which can be put in the fox's food, and it is reported to be very successful. Please get in touch with Wildlife Aid (09061 800132) for more information.
We have been dealing with foxes for over 30 years and have had numerous cases of mange that we have treated here at Wildlife Aid. I have always had dogs here and at no time has any of them caught mange. As far as feeding foxes is concerned, we always advise strongly against it as this lessens their instinct to hunt and means they get used to one easy food source, it also means that if you move away or go on holiday their food supply will abruptly cease, and besides which plenty of people don't like foxes and it is not uncommon for people to put down poison or to seek to do them harm in other ways.
Simon Cowell MBE, Wildlife Aid
To order the fox mange treatment from Wildlife Aid click here
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