In the latest of our series of advising Liz our ad sales lady of everything she needs to do before he gets her GSD pup, what methodology for training should she follow?
What should she look for in a good puppy training class? Ideal class size? Age of pups? What qualifications/affiliations should the trainer have?
And how many weeks should the course be for? How early can you start and what should you be doing before the class begins?
And what are your view on socialisation before the vaccines kick in?
Anyone found any good puppy slings or other devices to make socialisation easier before you can let the little darling potter about?
What the ideal first thing to wear - a traditional collar or a harness or even a head collar?
Any suggestions welcomed, best ideas will be used in the magazine.
Dog training – some of my best memories of growing up. I was brought up with Pedro, a tricolour collie cross. In his twilight weeks, as he approached his fourteenth birthday, Skip joined us as an eight-week-old puppy and gave Pedro a new lease of life. After Pedro passed away, it seemed so unfair for Skip to be on his own that we found Nan, my first dog. Both Skip and Nan were border collies and therefore had brains which needed work, so we joined a local dog training club.
Soon the bug had bitten and we found ourselves joining the obedience dog show circuit. Pressures of work and bringing up a family have meant that I no longer actively participate in dog obedience. Dog training does not, however, have to mean such a high input, and that it is where ‘lower key’ dog training classes are invaluable. I think it is so important for everyone, human and canine, to share a language and to know the ground rules, so that life runs smoothly.
The important age for socialising a puppy is quoted variously as 6-12 weeks and 7-14 weeks. It is certainly important for a puppy to experience as much as possible in the early formative weeks of his or her life, and to ensure that they are positive experiences which will lay the foundation for a happy life. The practice where I work is not alone in offering puppy classes. Ours are a three week course for puppies under the age of fourteen weeks who have had at least one vaccination. They are run by two qualified veterinary nurses and a dog trainer.
Puppies really enjoy themselves! This is particularly evident from their response when they come into the practice for a different reason other than for the puppy class – they bound in, tails wagging and looking for the fun to start! It makes life so much easier and enjoyable for us vets when our patients enjoy coming to see us!
One regular feature of the puppy class is being weighed on the floor scales. So many adult dogs refuse to stand on the platform which feels unsteady, so an early and pleasant introduction to the floor scales is very important. Again, it makes life much easier and less stressful for all concerned (and takes up less time) when your canine patient willingly steps onto the platform to be weighed.
All members of the family are invited along with their puppy and everyone seems to enjoy themselves. I find it so interesting to see how the puppies progress even within the space of one class, the shy one coming out of its shell, the bold hooligan being put in his place. It is not unusual to find puppies crashed out after all the activity and stimulation.
A puppy class is also a chance for the owners to ask questions, which may well help other owners with similar problems or queries. If mistakes can be avoided at this early age, then problems in later life may never arise.
There is so much for a puppy to learn in his new home, but there is so much more in the great outside world. Puppy classes are a very useful way to start experiencing all that in a pleasant and controlled manner, whilst affording the human family support and encouragement.
Of course, your puppy is learning all the time so joining a class for older puppies is the natural step in his development after a puppy course. The adolescent stage can be challenging so, again, this is where training classes can help both the canine teenager and the human family, so to speak.
Alison Logan, vet
Katrina Stevens, Kesyra German Shepherds, says...
I would suggest going along to watch the class without the pup first, so that the owner can feel happy that the pup will receive only good experiences from it. It's too late if you go to a class and something untoward happens, such as another dog having a go at the pup, which could upset the new pup indefinitely. The training should be reward based and the class should involve some free play for the pups, but this must be supervised and care must be taken that any sensitive pups are not bullied by older, bigger or generally more dominant pups.
I would say a class of around six pups would be ideal and they should be as young as possible and ideally all around the same age and size. I usually advise my owners to go to an APDT approved class that also works towards the KC good citizens tests, as this gives the new owner incentive to work towards something.
I advise owners to take their pups out from the start. They can take the pup out in the car and carry him into some shops. They can visit friends' houses or the local pub or sit with him on a bench, so that he can watch traffic or children go by. The experiences must be pleasurable and it is ideal to have a few titbits handy to reward good behaviour. I give my pups homeopathic nosodes from four weeks and then a supply to my new owners, as I am not a believer in vaccinating too early. (This is due to three very bad experiences, but this is another story!). I am of the opinion that it is fine for the pup to be taken out to 'safe' places before the vaccinations. I take my pups to the end of my lane to see the traffic and school children. I don't let them sniff the grass verges, but they do walk on the pavement...after all I walk on that same pavement and I don't disinfect my shoes when I come back home! Equally, the foxes that frequent most gardens also go in the local park where other dogs go, so I really think that it is a matter of common sense.
Dorothy Cullum, GSD Information Group, says...
I always advise to go to a breed club that knows the breed you have purchased. i.e. British Association for the GSD (BAGSD) to get your nearest training class.
Training starts from day one, NOT at six months when problems have set in. Then when vaccines have been given and kicked in one can sit at the gate to watch traffic etc and socialise with people at the office and park etc BUT do not WALK the dog into the ground. It is growing and is not a marathon runner.
Meet other dogs and get your pup to classes especially when as the club mentioned does the Good Citizens Scheme. Puppy - Bronze- Silver and Gold schemes, fun for both dog and handler.
Gail Gwesyn-Pryce, Dogs Today GSD Advisor, says...
The most important thing to get before your GSD puppy arrives would be Joye Ixer's excellent book on the breed. She has just updated it and if you email her on joyceixer@aol.com I am sure she will be able to supply you with a copy. Also make sure you have an indoor kennel, your freezer full of food (if you wish to feed your puppy correctly) and lots of common sense! Very importantly get your name on the waiting list for puppy classes and start as soon as possible.
I no longer vaccinate my dogs conventionally and would expect to be able to take my puppy socialising at seven weeks. Obviously as a dog trainer, I am training him/her at home from that age when they are at their most receptive (7-12 weeks) but certainly training should have started well before the four-and-a-half month period which is when bad habits will start to creep in. With a breed as intelligent as the GSD early training is a must and continued training a necessity to keep their brains exercised. They are not a breed just to be kept as a pet, they need a job of work to do - all mine do working trials. Go and visit some classes and look for a calm atmosphere with a small number of puppies (six if no assistant, eight maximum with). APDT have a list of trainers advocating kind training but there will be others. As a general rule I would want to see that the instructor has trained their own dog to a high (competition) standard if they are to instruct me in basics.
An ordinary buckle on collar and long lead is all you should ever need unless YOU teach your dog to pull. Dogs are not born pulling on the lead, it is something that owners teach them the first time they attach their lead to the collar. I get a lot of clients coming to me with this problem and we then have to use control measure to help with this - I advocate the Gentle Leader - but better still learn how to handle a lead the correct way from day one and you won't need anything else.
More dogs die from behaviour problems via the rescue system than from diseases that can be vaccinated against. Even if a homeless dog has no behaviour problem, a problem dog may be taking up the last rescue space.
ReplyDeleteI habituate puppies from 6 weeks, going to the breeder if necessary. The breeder should have toys in the litter from 3 weeks and rotate them every three days so the puppies learn to play with toys, not each other. This sets them up for a great way to educate them and stops mouthing and biting of fingers. Also more food bowls than puppies, especially for a guarding breed, don't let the breeder feed them all from one bowl.
It's much more important to get the puppy out and about than hidden away before vaccination, but avoid places of heavy dog traffic, and the bottom of lampposts. If you do take puppy to puppy class, the best ones will do the course before 12 weeks, so once a week is not enough if you can't take them pre-vac. I run them from 6 weeks, although I do 121 in my home or puppy's home not classes so don't have that issue, and much prefer to do the 6 sessions in a week, rather than once a week.
I'm a strong believer in not letting puppies play together, this 'fashion' suits America where they have dog parks so dogs have to learn to get on, because they're all let off lead to play together, but in the UK the dogs should be more interested in staying with the owner than running across the park to 'say hello' to other dogs where they could be entirely unwelcome! Then the other dog owners has to suffer this dog perhaps upsetting theirs while the nuisance dog is collected by the owner as they have no recall.
I recommend In Tune with Your Dog by John Rogerson, although he has a new book out now, The DogVinci Code which might cover the same ground.
Over the years we have always 'carry-walked' our pups before innoculations so that they get to know the big outside world with its noises and smells. Our pups can be quite hefty so sometimes we drive and then just have a short carry. We are also lucky enough to live by the sea so a good run on newly washed over sand is brilliant and as safe as the garden as far as germs are concerned.
ReplyDeleteNever underestimate the benefits of a good puppy training class, and equally, never underestimate the damage a poor training class can do.
ReplyDeleteIt is difficult to recommend a class simply via affiliations as these are not always a guarantee of quality. Gwen Bailey's Puppy School is, however, a good place to start looking. You should ensure that the trainer has kept their skills up to date and that they have made efforts to get qualifications (APDT for example).
Definitely go along to the classes before you take pup, to see if their techniques are kind and fair - no harsh punishments and no choke chains, no yanking on lead, no talk of old fashioned 'dominance' and so on.
Even before puppy classes start, a good Vet will provide 'puppy playgroup' which gives young puppies the chance to meet and mix before their second vaccination.
The pups should be allowed adequate socialisation time during the class, but this shouldn't be an excuse for bigger pups to 'dive bomb' smaller or more timid ones.More timid pups should be able to mix in their own time.
Do not make the common mistake of hoping that a class will replace the need to socialise your puppy elsewhere. I produce a detailed chart for my puppy clients to ensure they cover every angle of normal life to ensure puppy can experience all kinds of new things in the critical period (before around 12 weeks of age). They also need to keep socialisation going regularly, not just for this period but for the rest of the dog's life.
As both a trainer and puppy owner I would echo Karen's comments. Goto a training club and just watch a session. Join the one that you have a good gut feeling about. If you have any doubts, it is usually an indication to look elsewhere.
ReplyDeleteThe first sixteen weeks of your puppy's life is crucial so get out there and calmly meet different people and animals.
When you register with the Vet you should be offered some sort of puppy playgroup and some useful literature.
I think puppy play in small doses is fine and gets it out of their system. My puppy has played with so many dogs now that when he sees another he just looks at me and has no desire to meet yet another one!
But if you are reading this now it shows you are serious and will be doing the right thing. Don't end up like some customers who turn up at the club where I work. After nine months of no training the dogs have a ton of behaviour issues! Start training now!