I am a 17-year-old student studying ND animal management ready to go to university to study veterinary sciences and medicine. I am about to start an investigative project. My chosen category is "Will outbreeding pedigree dogs change their current welfare and genetic situation?"
As you may be able to tell, it is basically about changing pedigree breeding standards. This may be a little unorthodox, but I buy your magazine monthly and know how much you are doing to help change the breeding standards within the Kennel Club. I don't get any government support and am finding it extremely hard to gain access to the materials i need.
I have at least seven of your magazines to use in my literature review, and your two pamphlets on the issue, I also have a transcript of the Kennel Club's response to the programme "Pedigree Dogs Exposed." I am getting a book by George A. Padgett called Control of Genetic Diseases.
I was wondering if there was any other books you would be able to advise me to use, and if you would have a copy of the transcript from Pedigree Dogs Exposed as I have to use a transcript, not the video.
I am sorry for writing such an unorthodox email but I hope that you would be the people to help me as I am completely stumped.
Thank you for taking the time to read this and hopefully helping my cause.
Kayleigh Bale (student)
Hi Kayleigh
I've forwarded your email to the programme's creator Jemima Harrison to see if there is a transcript available.
The first place I'd start is the RSPCA scientific review of dog breeding which is very well referenced. Click here to download.
Anyone else got any must read books/reports?
I'd stop by Carol Fowler's great website for a review of all the relevant reports, too. Carol was the brave Cavalier lady featured in the documentary. Her website is called "Campaign to improve the health of pedigree dogs" Click here.
Good luck with your studies.
Best wishes
Beverley Cuddy, Editor
May issue
May issue
Monday, 28 September 2009
Friday, 25 September 2009
Pondering about danger
My dog is a Springer, but if it was only spring water she jumped in that would be fine. I've heard about the dangers of Algae and I have no idea what it is I'm meant to be looking for.
There's green stuff growing all over the surface of our pond, but it doesn't stop her drinking it and swimming in it.
How do I spot the dangerous stuff? Anything I can do to our pond to make sure we don't get it?
Jon James, High Wycombe
Alison Logan, vet, says...
The specific risk from algae is when there is a rapid proliferation of blue-green algae following warm or hot weather with little or no wind, generally in stagnant water. This is called an algal bloom. The windward parts of lakes and reservoirs are particularly affected with this blue-green scum and slime, which is toxic if swallowed or if groomed off the coat after swimming.
There are different types of algal bloom which have different toxic effects. There are three main toxins: one causes liver failure, the other two act on the nervous system. They can act very rapidly indeed, and all that can be done is to treat the clinical signs and wait for the toxin to leave the body. Sadly, there have been fatalities.
It is therefore wise - but often not possible – to check the water your dog has chosen for swimming before she launches herself into it when the weather has been calm and warm or hot. If you can see a blue-green scum or film on the water then I would put her on the lead and head off in the opposite direction.
The situation with your own pond is more difficult. Much will depend on the size and location, and whether there is circulation of the water, either naturally or with some artificial method. Avoiding stagnation is a key factor. Inspecting the water by eye in hot weather is advisable and it may well be possible to have samples analysed if you suspect the presence of blue-green algae.
In hot weather, a dog’s natural urge is to cool off with a dip. Swimming is a great form of exercise which avoids over-heating in hot weather, as well as being non-weight-bearing. If, on a particular day when weather conditions are warm and still, you suspect your pond may have been affected with a blue-green algal bloom then it would be safer and wiser to take her somewhere else.
Nick Thompson, holistic vet, says...
Cyanobacteria is the posh name for what you’re referring to here. They are called Blue-Green Algae and they are present in most brackish, still water, much less so in rivers. However, in the summer in hot, calm conditions especially, they can ‘bloom’, or ‘swarm’ across a pond, contaminating the water with hepato-toxins (affecting liver) or neuro-toxins, affecting the nervous system. It makes the water look a bit like spinach or watercress soup. You can see some good pictures if you look in Google Images
The toxins produced by the algae can cause very severe disease and even death, with some reports in the U.S. describing dogs being found dead at the edge of algae infested lakes. If your dog collapses or shows any extreme symptoms (collapse, salivation, breathing difficulty) after swimming in any still water during the summer, it’s probably worth mentioning this to the vet who can treat for toxicity as well as checking for heart problems or epilepsy etc.
Instances of these bloom problems are not that common in the UK at the moment, so please do not forbid your dog from swimming in lakes just yet.
The best advice is to be more careful with still water in the summer, especially late summer and to examine any ponds, lakes or non-flowing water, especially the windward shores, before your dog jumps in or even laps. It's a pain, but the alternative is to forbid all still water swimming, which is much worse as swimming is really important and a lot of fun!
Blue green (which can also be brownish greyish) algae over-grow in still, warm water where the balance of nutrients is high, the acidity of the water is abnormal. Normal maintenance of the pond, monitoring nutrient and pH parameters of the water and keeping the pump running well to oxygenate the water should be enough to stop algae blooming in a pond near you.
There's green stuff growing all over the surface of our pond, but it doesn't stop her drinking it and swimming in it.
How do I spot the dangerous stuff? Anything I can do to our pond to make sure we don't get it?
Jon James, High Wycombe
Alison Logan, vet, says...
The specific risk from algae is when there is a rapid proliferation of blue-green algae following warm or hot weather with little or no wind, generally in stagnant water. This is called an algal bloom. The windward parts of lakes and reservoirs are particularly affected with this blue-green scum and slime, which is toxic if swallowed or if groomed off the coat after swimming.
There are different types of algal bloom which have different toxic effects. There are three main toxins: one causes liver failure, the other two act on the nervous system. They can act very rapidly indeed, and all that can be done is to treat the clinical signs and wait for the toxin to leave the body. Sadly, there have been fatalities.
It is therefore wise - but often not possible – to check the water your dog has chosen for swimming before she launches herself into it when the weather has been calm and warm or hot. If you can see a blue-green scum or film on the water then I would put her on the lead and head off in the opposite direction.
The situation with your own pond is more difficult. Much will depend on the size and location, and whether there is circulation of the water, either naturally or with some artificial method. Avoiding stagnation is a key factor. Inspecting the water by eye in hot weather is advisable and it may well be possible to have samples analysed if you suspect the presence of blue-green algae.
In hot weather, a dog’s natural urge is to cool off with a dip. Swimming is a great form of exercise which avoids over-heating in hot weather, as well as being non-weight-bearing. If, on a particular day when weather conditions are warm and still, you suspect your pond may have been affected with a blue-green algal bloom then it would be safer and wiser to take her somewhere else.
Nick Thompson, holistic vet, says...
Cyanobacteria is the posh name for what you’re referring to here. They are called Blue-Green Algae and they are present in most brackish, still water, much less so in rivers. However, in the summer in hot, calm conditions especially, they can ‘bloom’, or ‘swarm’ across a pond, contaminating the water with hepato-toxins (affecting liver) or neuro-toxins, affecting the nervous system. It makes the water look a bit like spinach or watercress soup. You can see some good pictures if you look in Google Images
The toxins produced by the algae can cause very severe disease and even death, with some reports in the U.S. describing dogs being found dead at the edge of algae infested lakes. If your dog collapses or shows any extreme symptoms (collapse, salivation, breathing difficulty) after swimming in any still water during the summer, it’s probably worth mentioning this to the vet who can treat for toxicity as well as checking for heart problems or epilepsy etc.
Instances of these bloom problems are not that common in the UK at the moment, so please do not forbid your dog from swimming in lakes just yet.
The best advice is to be more careful with still water in the summer, especially late summer and to examine any ponds, lakes or non-flowing water, especially the windward shores, before your dog jumps in or even laps. It's a pain, but the alternative is to forbid all still water swimming, which is much worse as swimming is really important and a lot of fun!
Blue green (which can also be brownish greyish) algae over-grow in still, warm water where the balance of nutrients is high, the acidity of the water is abnormal. Normal maintenance of the pond, monitoring nutrient and pH parameters of the water and keeping the pump running well to oxygenate the water should be enough to stop algae blooming in a pond near you.
Night lights needed
I am finding that walking my gorgeous black pup in the evening is proving increasingly tricky. I can't see her if she runs too far ahead and on the bits of our walk where we are near the road, cars struggle to see both of us as nearly everything in my wardrobe is black, too!
What can I use to help us stand out? And is there anything I can use to help us to continue to enjoy a game of fetch at night? I'm aware that darker mornings and evenings could significantly lessen our chances of having a good game.
Please brighten up our lives! What fun things have you found that we can wear/play with?
Georgina Blaire, Halifax
I have the same problem when walking our black Labrador in the early hours of dark mornings. In fact, for me it is a sign of impending winter when the reflective gear has to be worn.
I wear the reflective belt I used to wear when cycling in the dark. It has a waist band with a band running up from the front, over one shoulder to re-join the waist band at the back. Now, you can also buy high visibility tabards to wear over outer clothing, which are even more effective.
I always carry a torch but never have it turned on because I like my eyes to become dark-adapted. If I hear a vehicle approaching, then I do turn it on and point it in the direction of the vehicle to reinforce my presence!
I must confess that I do also look on my torch as some means of self-defence. I go through phases of chickening out of walking in the dark, even though I have my trusty canine friend with me. As for walking in the dark when it is foggy…
There are now all manner of safety items for dogs to wear when it is dark, or in that awkward half light of early morning or dusk. They range from high visibility collar and leads to LED collars.
Pippin sports a reflective, high visibility collar and lead. Her original set was black with white reflective stripes but sadly that went astray so she now has a fluorescent yellow, high visibility set. Attached to the collar is a special tag: it is a shallow cube which has a fluorescent yellow patch on one side and a light source which I switch on before we set off. It is very interesting to watch the light and follow what she is doing, when I am sure she thinks her activities are hidden under cover of darkness!
I think it is very important to consider the safety of yourself and your dog when light conditions are poor. Facing oncoming traffic is generally recommended, because your face will be more apparent when vehicles’ lights illuminate it. I would, however, think about trying to ensure that your dog is walking on the verge side of the road, ie you will have to walk your dog on the ‘wrong’ side of your body, on your right side.
Take care!
Alison Logan, Vet
What can I use to help us stand out? And is there anything I can use to help us to continue to enjoy a game of fetch at night? I'm aware that darker mornings and evenings could significantly lessen our chances of having a good game.
Please brighten up our lives! What fun things have you found that we can wear/play with?
Georgina Blaire, Halifax
I have the same problem when walking our black Labrador in the early hours of dark mornings. In fact, for me it is a sign of impending winter when the reflective gear has to be worn.
I wear the reflective belt I used to wear when cycling in the dark. It has a waist band with a band running up from the front, over one shoulder to re-join the waist band at the back. Now, you can also buy high visibility tabards to wear over outer clothing, which are even more effective.
I always carry a torch but never have it turned on because I like my eyes to become dark-adapted. If I hear a vehicle approaching, then I do turn it on and point it in the direction of the vehicle to reinforce my presence!
I must confess that I do also look on my torch as some means of self-defence. I go through phases of chickening out of walking in the dark, even though I have my trusty canine friend with me. As for walking in the dark when it is foggy…
There are now all manner of safety items for dogs to wear when it is dark, or in that awkward half light of early morning or dusk. They range from high visibility collar and leads to LED collars.
Pippin sports a reflective, high visibility collar and lead. Her original set was black with white reflective stripes but sadly that went astray so she now has a fluorescent yellow, high visibility set. Attached to the collar is a special tag: it is a shallow cube which has a fluorescent yellow patch on one side and a light source which I switch on before we set off. It is very interesting to watch the light and follow what she is doing, when I am sure she thinks her activities are hidden under cover of darkness!
I think it is very important to consider the safety of yourself and your dog when light conditions are poor. Facing oncoming traffic is generally recommended, because your face will be more apparent when vehicles’ lights illuminate it. I would, however, think about trying to ensure that your dog is walking on the verge side of the road, ie you will have to walk your dog on the ‘wrong’ side of your body, on your right side.
Take care!
Alison Logan, Vet
Wednesday, 23 September 2009
How do you fatten up a skinny Lurcher?
Dear Think Tank
Meet the newest Dogs Today dog. This is Isla, a small, sweet young Lurcher from Scotland originally via Dogs Trust's Newbury kennels. She has settled straight in, loves everyone and has been remarkably good.
Isla arrived with a bag of dry food, which she was not terribly keen on. While Lurchers are known for their slim figures, Isla is very underweight and needs to put on about 1kg ideally.
How should I do this? Isla loves ham and human food, but dry dog food does not seem to interest her at all.
She already has two meals a day, now tarted up with very finely chopped ham, but she's not got a great appetite.
What tips would you pass on for putting some meat on her long elegant bones? She was spayed just before she left Dogs Trust and is about to have her stitches out.
She is painfully thin, even for a Lurcher. I am worried if she were to fall ill she would have no reserves. She has very little stamina and tires very easily.
My partner Kathryn cooked her liver and bacon but also included a worming tablet, which may explain why she didn't tuck in!
Not much is known about her life in Scotland, the staff at Dogs Trust thought there was more chance of her putting weight on in a home than in kennels which is why she's come to us so thin.
What should I try to build her up? Beverley has suggested trying lots of small meals with more carbs than protein. I've just made her some macaroni cheese and she's licked the plate clean and is now soundly asleep on the sofa. Anyone got any Lurcher-specific hints or indeed recipes?
Kevin Brockbank, Dogs Today illustrator
PS Both Kathryn and I fed her three bowls of pasta/potato/ham with thin coating of leftover cheese not realising the other had already done it. She ate the lot but had an upset tum the next morning. Too much, too soon. The vet agrees she needs to put on about a kilo.
Monday, 21 September 2009
Rain check
I have a six-year-old male neutered Whippet. He developed a phobia of fireworks and thunder several years ago. This has escalated so that now he is also frightened of rain. Each time it rains heavily when he is indoors he will pant, shake and pace. This becomes so stressed he hardly eats and often vomits if he does eat. To make matters worse he has a grade 4 heart murmur so I worry at the stress he is placing on his heart.
I have tried Skullcap and Valerian tablets, rescue remedy, DAP diffusers, collars and room sprays. I have tried a supplement called Zylkene, and also seen my vet and been on two courses of Clomicalm on two separate years for three months - October through to December. I think the Colmicalm helps a little, but nothing else seems to help much at all. I try to be matter of fact and never make a big thing of his fear. I have tried sound tapes and taking his mind off things with treats, toys and training, but he is generally too stressed to respond. Giving him a 'den' (cage covered over) seems to help him a little, yet strangely he can hear gunshot and thunder while out walking without any signs of fear and his only problem with rain when outside is being miserable because he is wet and cold.
Does anyone have any other ideas I might try?
Frances Wrigley, by email
I have tried Skullcap and Valerian tablets, rescue remedy, DAP diffusers, collars and room sprays. I have tried a supplement called Zylkene, and also seen my vet and been on two courses of Clomicalm on two separate years for three months - October through to December. I think the Colmicalm helps a little, but nothing else seems to help much at all. I try to be matter of fact and never make a big thing of his fear. I have tried sound tapes and taking his mind off things with treats, toys and training, but he is generally too stressed to respond. Giving him a 'den' (cage covered over) seems to help him a little, yet strangely he can hear gunshot and thunder while out walking without any signs of fear and his only problem with rain when outside is being miserable because he is wet and cold.
Does anyone have any other ideas I might try?
Frances Wrigley, by email
Friday, 18 September 2009
Something is bugging our Havanese
My husband and I recently had swine flu. I have recovered, but my husband is still coughing. We sometimes give our leftover chicken or other protein to our Havanese and Golden Retriever after dinner. In the last 24 hours the Havanese has developed a very hoarse raspy cough, but otherwise is acting fine and is not running a temperature. Could she be getting the flu, too?
Diane K, by email
On the basis of my current understanding, the simple answer to your question is ‘no’, assuming your question to be ‘Could my Havanese have caught swine ‘flu from us?’
There are two types of influenza virus, named A and B. Type B affects humans whereas Type A viruses can also affect certain animals, although usually in a species-specific fashion. The virus involved in the current Swine ‘flu pandemic is thought to be the result of a pig influenza virus mixing with a human influenza virus to produce a new strain. Because this is a new strain, there is no immunity to the virus in the human population from having had a bout of ‘flu previously.
To date, there has only been human-to-human transmission of this swine ‘flu or H1N1 virus. It is generally recognized, however, that influenza viruses can readily change, hence all the worry when cases of avian ‘flu were first identified in humans. We have to hope that this virus retains all its current characteristics.
Type A influenza viruses can cause illness in dogs, and cats, but transmission to humans has not been identified. An outbreak of Canine Influenza Virus (CIV) occurred in Florida in 2004 and has affected dogs across several states in the US since then. A vaccine is now available in the US to limit the spread of this highly contagious virus which, fortunately, is rarely fatal. The illness it causes is quite similar to kennel cough here, and it is kennel cough which would head my list of possible explanations for your Havanese being ill.
Kennel cough is a coverall term for an infection characterized by a honking cough. The patient often brings up small pools of white froth. There are various causal agents, so although there are vaccines available against Bordetella bronchiseptica and parainfluenza virus they will be ineffective against other causes. A kennel cough infection is readily transmitted between dogs; an outbreak under kenneling conditions is classic if a dog is taken in who happens to be incubating it, hence the name kennel cough. Likewise, it can be picked up at dog club, dog shows, or meeting other dogs in the park, for example, so it could be said to be behaving like the common cold with a wide range of causative agents.
The patient may run a fever and therefore be under-the-weather, but more often than not he or she is otherwise well apart from this cough which can persist for one or two weeks. As vets, we do not prescribe antibiotics unless we suspect a secondary bacterial infection, and perhaps if the patient is frail or elderly. Cough suppressants and expectorants have a limited place in treatment because the cough is the body’s natural response to the effects of the virus.
Isolation is a priority and mainstay of treatment to limit the spread of the infection to other dogs. If you ring a veterinary practice to book an appointment for your dog to see a vet because of a cough, then it is likely you will be asked to leave your dog in the car. Only yesterday, I examined two dogs out in the car park with suspected kennel cough – great excuse for a breath of fresh air!
If your Havanese does indeed have kennel cough, then a more immediate likelihood is that your Golden Retriever will also develop the infection!
Alison Logan, vet
Diane K, by email
On the basis of my current understanding, the simple answer to your question is ‘no’, assuming your question to be ‘Could my Havanese have caught swine ‘flu from us?’
There are two types of influenza virus, named A and B. Type B affects humans whereas Type A viruses can also affect certain animals, although usually in a species-specific fashion. The virus involved in the current Swine ‘flu pandemic is thought to be the result of a pig influenza virus mixing with a human influenza virus to produce a new strain. Because this is a new strain, there is no immunity to the virus in the human population from having had a bout of ‘flu previously.
To date, there has only been human-to-human transmission of this swine ‘flu or H1N1 virus. It is generally recognized, however, that influenza viruses can readily change, hence all the worry when cases of avian ‘flu were first identified in humans. We have to hope that this virus retains all its current characteristics.
Type A influenza viruses can cause illness in dogs, and cats, but transmission to humans has not been identified. An outbreak of Canine Influenza Virus (CIV) occurred in Florida in 2004 and has affected dogs across several states in the US since then. A vaccine is now available in the US to limit the spread of this highly contagious virus which, fortunately, is rarely fatal. The illness it causes is quite similar to kennel cough here, and it is kennel cough which would head my list of possible explanations for your Havanese being ill.
Kennel cough is a coverall term for an infection characterized by a honking cough. The patient often brings up small pools of white froth. There are various causal agents, so although there are vaccines available against Bordetella bronchiseptica and parainfluenza virus they will be ineffective against other causes. A kennel cough infection is readily transmitted between dogs; an outbreak under kenneling conditions is classic if a dog is taken in who happens to be incubating it, hence the name kennel cough. Likewise, it can be picked up at dog club, dog shows, or meeting other dogs in the park, for example, so it could be said to be behaving like the common cold with a wide range of causative agents.
The patient may run a fever and therefore be under-the-weather, but more often than not he or she is otherwise well apart from this cough which can persist for one or two weeks. As vets, we do not prescribe antibiotics unless we suspect a secondary bacterial infection, and perhaps if the patient is frail or elderly. Cough suppressants and expectorants have a limited place in treatment because the cough is the body’s natural response to the effects of the virus.
Isolation is a priority and mainstay of treatment to limit the spread of the infection to other dogs. If you ring a veterinary practice to book an appointment for your dog to see a vet because of a cough, then it is likely you will be asked to leave your dog in the car. Only yesterday, I examined two dogs out in the car park with suspected kennel cough – great excuse for a breath of fresh air!
If your Havanese does indeed have kennel cough, then a more immediate likelihood is that your Golden Retriever will also develop the infection!
Alison Logan, vet
Can you help sniff out this product?
For the first time in many years I have a puppy, a Beagle. I would like to use the same method for housetraining as I did many years ago but I can't remember the name of the product.
It was a small bottle of a concentrated aroma that encourages dogs to wee on the newspaper or where ever you sprinkle it. Does anyone know what this is called and where I can get it.
Mr Hogarth, near Aberdeen, Scotland
I don't think Potty Rock will have existed when you last had a dog.
The US inventor had two dogs male and female and became angry at that his dogs were destroying his beautiful lawn with urine burn spots, he looked for a product to solve his problem and found nothing that worked so he set about researching and developing the Potty Rock in 2002, now having won a number of inventor awards in the US in 2005/2006 launched the product a year later, with huge success having sold over 100,000 units.
As the manufacturers in the UK of the Potty Rock we have large number of puppy and adult dog owners contact us with many problems with toilet training.
POTTY ROCK is a healey scented thin briquette 7''x 4'' that attracts all dogs and puppies male and females to toilet.
This product allows the dog owner to choose the area in the garden for their dog to do their toilet. Great for gardeners too, as it limits those ugly urine burn stains found dotted all around the lawn, the soiled area being confined to a small area far away from the children's play areas.
By following 'our four-step guide to training your dog to Potty Rock' assists the dog owner to toilet train their dog in a very simple method, the main thing to remember is to praise the dog and have patience and to put the time aside.
Your dog will soon associate the stone smell with toileting after a few visits.
Please visit www.pottyrock.co.uk for more detailed information.
For puppies we have found the Potty Rock a great asset, lay out the newspaper in the kitchen as you do and place the Potty Rock to one corner the puppy will soon use the Centre of the newspaper( have you laid newspaper down on the kitchen floor only to find your puppy poops and pees everywhere but on the newspaper) With the auwfull clean up that follows.
Once you have achieved this take the Potty Rock out to the garden and then follow our four step guide.
I do hope your readers find this a far more helpful aid to toileting
Kindest regards
David George
Sales Director
Greentouch Pet Products Ltd
greentouch@btconnect.com
Tel: 01525 721218
It was a small bottle of a concentrated aroma that encourages dogs to wee on the newspaper or where ever you sprinkle it. Does anyone know what this is called and where I can get it.
Mr Hogarth, near Aberdeen, Scotland
I don't think Potty Rock will have existed when you last had a dog.
The US inventor had two dogs male and female and became angry at that his dogs were destroying his beautiful lawn with urine burn spots, he looked for a product to solve his problem and found nothing that worked so he set about researching and developing the Potty Rock in 2002, now having won a number of inventor awards in the US in 2005/2006 launched the product a year later, with huge success having sold over 100,000 units.
As the manufacturers in the UK of the Potty Rock we have large number of puppy and adult dog owners contact us with many problems with toilet training.
POTTY ROCK is a healey scented thin briquette 7''x 4'' that attracts all dogs and puppies male and females to toilet.
This product allows the dog owner to choose the area in the garden for their dog to do their toilet. Great for gardeners too, as it limits those ugly urine burn stains found dotted all around the lawn, the soiled area being confined to a small area far away from the children's play areas.
By following 'our four-step guide to training your dog to Potty Rock' assists the dog owner to toilet train their dog in a very simple method, the main thing to remember is to praise the dog and have patience and to put the time aside.
Your dog will soon associate the stone smell with toileting after a few visits.
Please visit www.pottyrock.co.uk for more detailed information.
For puppies we have found the Potty Rock a great asset, lay out the newspaper in the kitchen as you do and place the Potty Rock to one corner the puppy will soon use the Centre of the newspaper( have you laid newspaper down on the kitchen floor only to find your puppy poops and pees everywhere but on the newspaper) With the auwfull clean up that follows.
Once you have achieved this take the Potty Rock out to the garden and then follow our four step guide.
I do hope your readers find this a far more helpful aid to toileting
Kindest regards
David George
Sales Director
Greentouch Pet Products Ltd
greentouch@btconnect.com
Tel: 01525 721218
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