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Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Pulling power

I own a 13-month-old Border Collie who gets on well with other dogs and people. However, I have been at training school since last November and now he constantly pulls towards other dogs.
The problem mainly occurs when the whole class works together. I find it very difficult to control him and it is hard to even get his attention. One of the trainers told me to buy a Halti, which I did. This improved the problem with pulling, but I still find it hard to keep his attention. I have now been told to buy a half-check chain and to check him if he pulls or if he is not listening to me. I have also been told to shout as loud as I can to show him I am in charge. I wanted training to be an enjoyable activity for my dog and me. Do you have any suggestions that could help with this problem?
Miss Fox, Fareham, Hampshire


Wow! Not sure I'd want to be at your training class! Dogs charging into others, owners yanking and pulling and shouting as loud as they can to 'show they are in charge'. Sounds like mayhem - and you are wondering why your dog is having trouble paying attention to you?
The scenario you describe is alas all too common at group training classes, and also a leading reason why so many people give up on them, believing that they and their dog are not getting anywhere, or getting anything really useful or constructive out of them. I am sure many other readers will have some sympathy with your predicament.
Here is basically what goes wrong. The first factor is bad energy. The level of canine/human noise, excitement and stress hormones circling the confines of your average village hall training class is just too much for many dogs to cope with. You may know your dogs are there to learn all sorts of helpful stuff, but they don't. They can just react to what they are experiencing at that moment.
Second, you cannot teach dogs something 'new' while they are in a distracted or stressed state. So in this respect, how much time in your dog's life, and out of the group training environment, have you actually spent teaching him to focus on you on command? Teaching a dog to focus on you, and pay attention to you, on command, is a vital early training exercise in itself. And if you do not teach a dog, from as early an age as possible, to pay attetion to you on command then you are hardly in a position to teach it anything else.
With such an exercise, moreover, you have to begin your training with as few surrounding distractions as possible - ie at home. Then, once your dog has reliably mastered 'watch me' commands there, you gradually up the level of distraction/pressure situations you expose your dog to while he still has to concentrate on you on command. So from hom, say, you will then move on to doing this exercise with your dog in the street, or park, or any walk you are on, regardless of what is going on around you.
It is always crucial to relentlessly teach your dog or puppy to focus on you on command, before exposing it to pressure situations like training classes, rather than expect any dog to first master this exercise in a highly distracting environment.
Collies as a breed have an extremely strong level of natural focus, but where many owners go wrong is in not training this focus primarily on to themselves, when their dogs are young, through use of toys, play and other bonding methods, and letting it escape off instead on to other targets. As an adolescent male, your dog's focus is now clearly getting tuned on to other dogs, which can be quite typical at his age.
All dogs have to be taught how to focus on an owner on command, and through a multitude of different distractions - it is never something they just learn by themselves. You can begin the following training in any dog from aged around six weeks onwards:
- Initially start your focus training at home. Hold a toy or tasty treat in your hand and ask your dog to sit. As it looks at you, even for a second, say the words 'watch me' while it is doing so, then reward it with the treat or toy and praise it well.
- Next, try getting your dog to watch you in the same way for five seconds. Remember not to say the words 'watch me' unless your dog is actually watching you. Then move up to getting your dog to watch you for ten seconds or more.
- If your dog refuses to pay any attention to you, when you are trying to get it to watch you, and keeps wandering off, keep it on a lead initially for all focus training exercises.
- Every time your dog looks away from you, or the toy/treat, say 'whoops!' or 'uh-huh' in a loud voice. Every time it looks back at you, say 'watch me' in a quiet, calm voice and then praise/reward it really well for doing so.
- Next, try getting your dog to watch you or the toy/treat while it lies down and you walk all around it.
- Then try getting your dog to sit or lie down and watch you for ten seconds before any of the following: Just prior to it going for a walk; just prior to it having a meal or treat; just prior to you having a game with it.
- Finally, so the same 'watch me' exercises before letting it off the lead on a walk, then throughout the walk, when other people or dogs are passing by, or before giving it a toy to play with. The more you do this training in a variety of distracting or exciting situations, the more bombproof your dog's concentration on you will become,
In my experience, dogs respond best to the application of quiet and calm authority, and the consistent reinforcement of 'correct' behaviour with appropriate rewards. They do not, by contrast, gain any greater level of respect and responsiveness for an owner as a result of being shouted at louder, or being yanked about by this or that restraining device. Such measures only raise their stress levels and, within an already distracting environment like a training class, simply make dogs more agitated, reactive, aggressive or unable to concentrate.
It may well be that you and your dog, at least for the present, are not best suited to the whole group training experience, and that you would get far more out of some intensive help from a good one-to-one trainer. Such a person could take you right back to basics, in terms of the whole way you relate to your dog, and show you how to better motivate him to focus on you and respond to your commands. As your dog is still so young it would be well worth making this kind of investment in his future.
If you cannot find a suitable one-to-one trainer locally, you could try the following: The UK Registry of Canine Behaviourists 01535 635290, www.ukrcb.org; The Association of Pet Dog Trainers 01285 810811 www.apdt.co.uk.
Carol Price, trainer and behaviourist

5 comments:

  1. I have had a similar problem with a Springer I rescued at 7 months. Firstly, when I need to walk him not try and train him to walk I walk him on a Gentle Leader (similar to a Halti). Like most dogs he sulks on it and won't sit at curbs or anything, but he doesn't pull. I found with my Staffy that a couple of months of the Gentle Leader helped her considerably. It has also helped with the Springer.

    As for training not to pull, there is guidance on the APDT website, which I combined with what our trainer told us and what I was advised via Twitter. So, on a training mission, I stop the second he pulls. I say 'Come on Max' gently and offer a treat. Eventally he spots me and will eventually return for the treat (it can be a favourite toy instead if you want). But it's not instant and sometimes you just have to stand your ground and hang on while he pulls. Then when he' back with me I start to walk on. If he stops I go through the same routine. You can see why I say don't do this on a normal walk.

    I've found Max has improved beyond all recognition on the lead. Yes, he occasionally pulls, but I just stop and say 'No pulling, come on Max', and wait for him to come back to me.

    I really hope that helps. Please, please don't use any form of choke chain and don't shout - it won't help at all. You'll simply hurt the dog and make him hate walking on a lead.

    Julia

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  2. I hope it wasn't a trainer who told you to shout as loud as you can to show him who's in charge!

    It sounds like something from the olden days when people were told to rub their dogs' nose in it if he messed. I bet it was an old person who said it.

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  3. I have some tips that may help you. If you can email me on pawsforsuccess@hotmail.co.uk then I will see what I can do. I can also arrange to come and do a one-to-one session with you and your dog if you feel that would help. Hope to hear from you soon.

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  4. Hi Miss Fox, I have just logged on and seen your problem and wish to offer some help. It seems everyone wants to take your money but not offer any solution as yet. I would be happy to offer you as much advice as I can to help you improve your relationship with your dog. I run School For Paws dog training in Shropshire and believe that you do not need to buy all these gimmicks to help you walk your dog on a lead. I train using simple and effective methods and teach the owner to understand their dogs and build a good working relationship with them. You have an amazing breed of dog that is bred to work and I can help you get your dog to work better for you. One of the things you can do is attention games by using his dinner for training. By feeding him by hand he will learn that all good sources come from you. He will then be on a learn to earn programme and will gain his food by working for you. You can do some simple commands like sit, down, wait and you can also do some 'watch me' and a game I call the name game and choices game (for more info on this please email me at info@schoolforpaws.co.uk). Have you tried some mind games like finding things with him or agility, working with a breed like a border collie is very rewarding and they will give back what you put in. With regards to walking on a lead I can recommend someone in your area that will be able to help you walk your dog on a lead and collar using a very simple and kind technique. I hope this is of help and good luck. Emma

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  5. We would recommend using a Dogmatic Headcollar on dogs pulling or lunging on the lead.

    The beauty of the Dogmatic is that it’s unique Patented Design means it will not ride up, under or into the eyes which causes distress to your pet and as it is much more comfortably and securely fitted, it avoids any potential dangers for you or your dog.

    Your dog will be more controllable, less excitable and will be safer and easier to train and walk regardless of it’s size! Ease of control is also vital for people with strong, large or stubborn breeds.

    Dog walking will become much easier and the most common behavioural problems such as pulling, lunging etc., are eliminated when using the Dogmatic.

    Less able bodied people will also find the Dogmatic invaluable as it enables you and your dog to enjoy each others’ company without any distress or discomfort.

    The Dogmatic should not be confused with a muzzle as it allows your dog to pant, eat, drink and carry a toy whilst wearing it and also has the added benefit of a calming influence!

    The Dogmatic is available in sizes to fit the majority of Breeds and crossbreeds.

    Whatever size or shape of dog, we feel sure we have a choice of Dogmatic Headcollar to suit your needs!

    We offer lined Leather, Padded Cushioned Webbing, Embossed Synthetic Leather all in a choice of colours and are about to launch our new Reflective range - we also have training leads, collars etc.,

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