I'm anxious about my dogs anxiety

I am dreading firework season, although this will be the first one for my young dog. As she is already quite nervous of thunder and gunshots, I think we'll have trouble.
I'm using a CD to try to slowly get her used to bangs, but is there anything I can give her to make her less anxious both while I'm using the CD and as we get nearer to the night itself?
Helen Lindsey, Barnsley

If she is anxious while you are doing the CD then you are proceeding too quickly for her and you need to start from scratch and slow the whole process down.  The CDs work by introducing your dog in a gradual and controlled manner to the sounds they fear.  You are in effect desensitising them to the sounds. This is relatively easy to do but must be done very slowly over a number of months and with constant monitoring of your dog’s responses. It is important not to rush any of the stages. Jumping ahead before your dog is ready will have the opposite effect to the one you want to achieve. To begin with play the CD very quietly as background noise while you both go about your usual day-to-day activities. Do not draw attention to the sound or fuss your dog. Gradually, for each session, increase the sound volume. The time you need to take on each stage can vary from dog to dog. Take your cue from your pet and do not proceed to the next stage until they are completely happy with the current volume level. Eventually the sound will become insignificant to your dog and they will ignore it. This is desensitisation. Apart from the sound CDs, there are other things you can try. Some people have claimed success with Dog Appeasing Pheromone (D.A.P.). You can purchase D.A.P. plug-in diffusers. These emit a synthetic substance that mimics the reassuring pheromone produced by bitches for their puppies.  D.A.P. is also available in a spray form for more local applications to bedding or indoor kennels.  I have also seen calming/relaxing dog collars in our local pet shop. They look like flea collars but are for stress management. Homoeopathic remedies can be useful, such as Bach Flower Remedies. Rescue remedy treatment should ideally be started a few days before bonfire night. Put about 5 drops (read the label) into your dogs food or water each evening.  Other natural remedies such as skullcap and valerian act as a herbal anxiety-relieving combination and can help at times of stress. The TTouch Body Wrap also claims success, using moderate pressure to comfort the mind and body during periods of stress and anxiety. Apart from lotions and potions, there are things you can do to help your dog when the fireworks start. Remain Calm - During the time of the fireworks you must make sure that you do not inadvertently reinforce your dog’s unwanted behaviour by paying them extra special attention. This will only lead your dog to think that it is right to feel fear and also that by showing fear they gain your attention and comfort. This will reward their fear response and make it more likely to recur. Instead, remain calm and act as you usually would. Ignore fearful behaviours and reward calmness. Lead by Example - Your dog will mirror your attitude. Giving your dog cuddles could make it seem that you are fearful too. If you remain calm then you encourage them to remain calm. Dogs also learn from each other. If you have a friend who has a dog that is not afraid of fireworks, invite them round for the evening. Your friend's dog will help set the right example. A word of caution - learning by example can work both ways. If the visiting dog becomes anxious after observing your dog's fear, do not continue. Tired Out - If your dog has been for a nice long walk and is physically and mentally tired out, they will be much more likely to settle in the evening and less likely to worry about the noise, lights and activity outside. Comfortable Surroundings - Take simple measures to make your dog comfortable such as closing the windows and curtains so that the sounds are not as loud and your pet cannot see the fireworks going off. It might also help if you provide your pet with a safe house such as a cosy den full of blankets. Make sure your dog views her den as her safe house by providing treats for her while she is in there and making sure she generally associates it with nice things.  Ideally, start this a week or two before firework night. All the blankets provide the perfect place for your dog to bury and hide when the noise starts. Comfort Food - Some dogs can also benefit from being fed a meal high in carbohydrate (such as well-cooked rice or pasta) which will help them to feel sleepier that evening. Distract - Take all focus away from the fireworks by playing music and start a game with your dog, generally keeping her busy. Maybe treat your dog to a new toy and save it especially for Bonfire night. Some tasty treats will also help to create good associations with this time of year. Other Precautions - Find out the exact date of local firework displays. Ask neighbours to warn you in advance of any private displays. Make sure your dog is wearing a collar and ID tag in case they escape in fear. Top up your dog's water as an anxious dog may be more thirsty than usual. Jenny Prevel, http://www.dfordog.co.uk/www.DforDog.co.uk

My initial reaction to your query is concern because of the heading and your first sentence – if you are anxious, then your anxiety will easily transmit to your dog, inadvertently reinforcing her anxiety. With her being a young dog showing noise phobia, you are right to be wanting to help her sooner rather than later.
Fortunately, management of noise phobias has moved on a long way from the days when acepromazine (‘the yellow tablet’) was prescribed. I remember well the requests which filled the dispensing pages during the week or so leading up to Guy Fawkes, and the requests on the day itself which really put pressure on us to fulfill them in time. ACP is a sedative and is now recognised as being inappropriate because being sedated does reduce or eliminate the anxious behaviours, but equally means that the dog cannot take any avoidance actions which it feels necessary.
Different drugs can be prescribed which act more appropriately. However, it is much better if the dog can be trained to cope and that is where a desensitisation programme comes in. It needs to be taken at a pace to suit the individual. It cannot be rushed, so you have quite rightly embarked on it this much before Guy Fawkes night.
Along with the changes in approach to noise phobias is the additional problem of fireworks being let off not just on 5th November. They are far more readily available than they used to be, and often discounted to encourage bulk-buying which can mean they are kept for use at other times of the year. Not only is there the problem of public and private fireworks displays from a week before to a week after 5th November, but there are also 31st December, Chinese New Year, weddings, birthday celebrations, etc., etc. In fact, I was reading in my local paper that a company has started marketing fireworks for use at funerals to commemorate the deceased. This all means that fireworks can potentially be a problem at any time of year.
Jenny mentioned Dog Appeasing Pheromone (plug-in diffuser, spray, collar) and herbal treatments which are indeed ideal to use in conjunction with a desensitisation programme. I have had great successes with the DAP collar in all manner of behavioural problems. It has the advantage of enabling the dog to take the DAP with him or her wherever he or she goes.
My Labbie Pippin became very insecure when we began packing up to move house so I fitted her with a DAP collar and she chilled out overnight. In fact, I had to work for a full day shortly afterwards so I bedded her down in a kennel at work and warned the nurses that she would howl. On the contrary, she curled up and went to sleep. Later in the day, she even took a dental chew and worked on that. I could not make out what had made the difference because previously she had barked incessantly and totally disregarded any food put in with her (yes, she was that unhappy!). Then I remembered that she was still wearing the DAP collar!
With your dog being only young yet already showing sound phobias, I would also suggest you seek professional help. Your vet will be able to offer individual advice, and may prescribe a drug to help your dog on specific risk times such as Guy Fawkes and New Year’s Eve in the short term. Your veterinary practice may offer a behaviour clinic with a veterinary nurse or vet, and should be able to recommend a dog behaviourist who will be able to work with you and your dog.
Alison Logan, vet

Nick Thompson, holistic vet, says:
You may be dreading the ‘season of sounds’, but you’re preparing early – well done. CD is a good idea – to be played as frequently as possible, especially in the evenings, to mimic what will happen in November. Well done.
However, there are a number of things that we can do in conjunction. The best thing would be, of course, a vet trained in homeopathy and herbs, to get a specific prescription, but if this is not possible, then I’d suggest ringing Dorwest Herbs to discuss the use of their Scullcap and Valerian tablets, which I find can be very good to help relax things. Start trialling them as soon as possible, so you know exactly how to dose for your dog, when the season comes. The orthodox approach is to use products such as Valium and Zylkene; it’s worth having a chat with your vet just so you have knowledge of the entire armoury at your disposal.
Homeopathically, I’d contact one of the many homeopathic pharmacies in the UK (Freeman’s, Helios, Nelson’s or Ainsworth’s, to name a few) to talk about getting a mix made up in a 200c potency. They are able to prescribe over the phone where vets are not. The remedies in the mix will differ, depending on the presenting symptoms (whether hiding under the bed, or clinging to you; whether over-excitedly chasing every rocket that goes up or responding by standing stock still, hoping they’ll not be noticed, and so on), but I usually look at Phosphorus, Borax, Gelsemium, Aconite, Belladonna or Stramonium, for example.
Your behaviour is really important, too. I would suggest getting into a routine in the evenings where you are very calm, have loud music (bombastic Proms-type tunes or Heavy Metal works well) playing and act as if nothing is happening. If you get into the habit now, it’ll seem like second nature when the season is upon you both. Best of luck.

Searching for an Annabel-proof toy

Our seven-month-old chocolate Lab/ Golden Retriever mix is a chewing machine! The first day we brought her home she seriously chewed through the molding and dry wall. She has progressively gotten better and for the most part, only chews the things we give her, such as toys... which is where our problem lies. We have yet to find a toy she can not destroy within 24 hours. Indestructible they may be, but are they Annabel proof? Not so much. We have tried many of these "indestructible" toys and find we just keep wasting our money. We want to make sure she has things she can play with, but we also want to keep her safe, no choking for this pup! Any one have any similar stories and solutions that have worked? We're quickly drowning in a sea of headless stuffed animals and half eaten ropes!
Suzi, by email

What's your poison?

Six years ago when we got our latest retriever pup, Diva, we soon found she had the most horrendous puppy 'scurf' - much more than normal. The initial reaction from our vet was that it was just puppy scurf and would clear up but if anything it got worse - trails of 'dandruff' everywhere.
They then decided it was a problem she wouldn't grow out of and suggested the only solution was long term steroids. I didn't want to go down that route and was advised to try a homeopathic vet in London (Ainsworths). I explained the problem on the phone and within 24 hours they had posted me a phial of arsenic tabs. The instructions were to give her one a day for a week, then one every other day for a week, which we did. Within a fortnight the scurf/dandruff had gone never to return. She had no adverse side effects to the treatment whatsoever.
What has happened though is that she has never ever had a flea on her, so I have not needed to pay for expensive flea control. She has had a very occasional tick but only when she's stuck her head down rabbit holes etc - nothing on a par with our previous retriever who had regular flea control but still had big problems. Can it be that arsenic in the system from a young age has kept fleas at bay similarily to garlic in humans keeping mosquitoes away? I'd be interested to know of similar reports - it would certainly revolutionise the cost of flea control.
Lyn Gadd, by email

Nick Thompson, holistic vet, says:
What a fantastic story! There’s a large contingent of ‘scientists’ in the media who are out to disparage homeopathy. Your ‘scurf’ story would suggest otherwise. Thanks for bringing it up.
The fact that Diva is not getting any problems with fleas and ticks is, I’m afraid, nothing to do with this early treatment or arsenic in the system. Homeopathic remedies are prepared in such a way that the toxic effects of the source material are eliminated. This is just as well as veterinary homeopaths commonly use many toxic substances in their remedies, for example: Strychnine, Phosphorus and even Uranium!
What I think is happening here, regarding fleas, is just good fortune. If you’d said you’d changed to a raw food diet and were feeding garlic, ginger and brewer’s yeast, I’d put it down to this, but as you don’t mention it, I presume you’re feeding similar to your previous dog.
You know how midges and mosquitoes attack some people much more than others, because of skin type and pheromones and such like? Well, I think this is similar to what we have here. I think Diva has good skin and is just lucky that insects are not really attracted to her.
Yes, flea products are used a lot with our cats and dogs. Too much, in my opinion. I advise my clients never to use these pesticides on their pets unless absolutely necessary, and then, only if herbal products containing Neem, are not effective. I say that I’d prefer to live with the odd flea than to have to cope with pesticide all over the dog, and, consequently, me! We spend millions on organic food in this country. If you come home, stroke the treated dog, then pick up an organic apple, for a snack, that apple is no longer pesticide free and organic!
Keep up the good work. Avoid pesticides where possible, maintain health to keep the skin vital and use homeopathy as much as possible.

Help, my dog has been diagnosed as anorexic

My Standard Poodle has been diagnosed with anorexia. This problem started a few months ago and reached crisis point a few weeks ago. We have been doing quite well with me cooking her food and gradually adding a little dried food. What she eats one day, she might turn up her nose at another day. I think I have more varieties of food in my house than the pet shop does. If she won't eat we do not make a fuss and try again later. There is no plausible reason why this has happened as I have two other dogs and they all get on well together. I was wondering if anyone else has come across this problem with their dog. Her body went into starvation mode and she has hardly been passing any motions but today she has chronic diarrhoea which has set us back. We have done all that we possibly can but any other suggestions would be most gratefully received.
Judith Stephens, Mrs

I'd love to try Flyball...

I love watching Flyball on TV but I can't yet drive and there doesn't seem to be anywhere near here where I can have a go even if I could get a lift. Is this something you can learn at home? Does anyone do a remote training course?
It looks so much fun.
I've got a collie that already loves catching balls, sounds like a perfect thing for us to try, but without a club locally we're a bit stuck.
Where can you buy a box that throws the balls in the air?
Maureen Little, Carlisle

Any tips for splitting nails?

I have three beautiful, happy and healthy Jack Russells. One of my boys, Trevor aged seven, has always loved chasing a ball. My problem is that every now and then he must land awkwardly having jumped to catch his ball, and splits a nail. This isn't just when ball chasing, it can also happen if running on uneven ground, such as rough moorland or around rock pools at the seaside. It is not always the same nail or same foot. Obviously when this happens it's very painful for him and bleeds quite badly for a few seconds. My vet has confirmed that Trevor (and his nails) are in tip top condition, and has come to the conclusion that poor Trev is just unlucky and maybe his stopping/landing techniques are to blame. I wondered if cod liver oil might help, but as my boys are fed a top quality complete food with some BARF, I don't want to over do the vitamin A, or anything else. My other two boys Graham and Wilf never have any such trouble. To put this in perspective, my boys get daily long walks and plenty of exercise in varied locations. This nail problem only occurs maybe about twice a year so I can't say it's frequent. It's just that being so distressing for him (and me!) I wondered if anyone had any ideas. He definitely won't wear those doggy boots!
Many thanks
Sara Marlow, Huddersfield

Richard Allport, alternative vet, says...
It seems unlikely to me that Trevor is just awkward at landing, and even if the nails look fine, I’m pretty sure there must be some weakness in them. Supplements of Zinc and Biotin will help strengthen the nail. Give them a try and see if Trevor can avoid his ‘split ends’!

Help! My normally lovely dog is snapping at children

I have two Golden retrievers, a neutered 22-month-old boy, Teddy and nine-month-old Lola. Lola is a total darling and is super friendly to everyone. I would have said the same of Teddy, until two months ago when we had new neighbours move in. They are friends of ours and their children play at our house with our children. 
I'm writing this as, for the third time Teddy has growled at or snapped at the children. Each of the three children have now had a bad reaction from him and I'm stunned. Teddy is a very calm dog, typically soft mouthed, well trained and obedient. He isn't a push-over submissive dog but he is not aggressive. 
The first reaction happened when Lola was being fussed by the children and the 10 year old girl came over to Teddy to give him a stroke. Teddy growled at her. The second time was when the seven year old boy petted him. Teddy made a snap at him. I thought this may be because Teddy and Lola had been play fighting and the lad moved suddenly towards Teddy, when the 'game' had just finished. The third time was when I had hold of Teddy's collar and the seven year old girl stroked his head as she walked past. Teddy snapped at her hand. My own children are 15, 13 and 10 so the dogs are used to children in the house.
I'm really perplexed as to why this is happening and I'm really disappointed too. Teddy barks at the door bell when the children arrive but scrambles to greet them when they get in. I can tell the children to ignore Teddy and I can keep him away from them but I'd really like to know why he is reactig like this. He's not protective over Lola - is he protective over me? I have been standing by his side each time this has happened and he is a mummy's boy.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Sam Young


Karen Wild, Canine Behaviour Counsellor, says...
It certainly sounds as if Teddy is not comfortable with the children approaching and petting him. The safest option is for you to immediately seek professional help and at present your suggestion is correct, do not allow the children to approach or pet Teddy for now. Ask your vet for referral to a behaviour professional such as an APBC member www.apbc.org.uk who will be able to help you teach Teddy to learn some safer habits. A growl is a clear warning that a dog is not happy with a situation and the more 'history' a dog has of the same reactions the more likely they are to repeat the same behaviour, escalating it each time (hence the snapping behaviour you witnessed on the third occasion). I can understand your feelings as it can come as a real shock to see your beloved dog behaving in this way. Try to think of it in terms of Teddy communicating his unease in the only way he knows how. If these warnings go unheeded, he has no option but to take it a stage further each time. This does not mean he should be branded as a 'nasty' dog - it sounds like he sees some things as a threat and would rather keep his distance. Owners often tell me their dog is not 'aggressive' but truly, most dogs that bite are often out of their comfort zone but are lovely pets the rest of the time. His reaction in this case could be for many reasons so do take that first step - contact an accredited behaviourist who will help you - and Teddy - to regain that level of confidence again.