My daughter is about to move in with me she has two dogs, a Beardie Collie x lurcher called Gypsy she is 12 years and is spayed and a blue merle Border Collie called Diesel he is 4 years, and is entire, I have a black & white Border Collie called Devon he is 8 years, and is neutered. They all get on well together when we take them for walks, they have all been on holiday together without any problems, they all play well together with no fighting over toys. But Devon can be very jealous over me and if Gypsy comes near me he will push her away but if Diesel comes near me Devon will start a fight, Diesel is very hyper-active and doesn't settle till it gets dark so is constantly on the go, so my question is: How can we avoid any fights without keeping Devon and Diesel muzzled in our home, ideally I would like to take Devon and Diesel for walks on my own but feel at the moment it would be to much of a battle.
Ray Thrush
Carol Price, trainer and behaviourist, says...
Keeping two dogs of the same sex under the same roof can always be a bit of a lottery. Sometimes it works out fine, but in other cases it can be a recipe for ongoing conflict. It tends to depend greatly on the nature of the dogs concerned, and also how their behaviour is handled.
Either way, when owners tell me that their dogs are ‘possessive’ or ‘jealous’ about them, it does tend to ring warning bells, in terms of the true nature of the relationship between them; i.e the dog in question is seeing an owner less as a suitably superior leader figure in his life and more as some prized resource he has to guard from all comers. This in turn can also signify an owner’s perceived weakness in relation to their dog.
Countless dogs spend their time being ‘loved’ and indulged by their owners, but not enough get given the firm and consistent guidance necessary for them to master more acceptable behaviour.
A dog should not be afforded the right to decide who his owner can or can’t have an interaction with—be they human or canine. Only you, as an owner, have this right, and if your dog is not taught to accept this it can be a recipe for ongoing trouble.
My suspicions are also that Devon may pretty much have access to you, and all areas of your home, all the time, which can lead to intense emotional over-attachment in dogs and more extreme reactions whenever this attachment appears under threat (e.g. howling/barking/destructive behaviour when the dog is left alone or aggression towards any rivals for an owner’s attention).
So a first sensible step before your daughter moves in with her dogs is to begin putting a bit more emotional distance between yourself and Devon, to get him more used to not always having your undivided attention on demand. The best way to do this is to get a dog gate installed between the kitchen, say, and all other areas of the house. Put Devon’s bed in the kitchen, and encourage him to spend time on his own there, on the other side of the gate, while you are at home.
As he is used to being with you all the time, he is highly likely to protest at this point, with much frustrated whining and barking, which you must totally ignore, however long it goes on for. Only go back to Devon when he is quiet again.
Before your daughter’s dogs move in, also get her to give you items, like old T-shirts, with their scent on, and place these next to Devon’s bowl at every meal time, to build up more positive associations in his mind.
It may, in fact, be a good idea to set up separate ‘dog quarters’ in the kitchen for both Devon and your daughter’s dogs, once they move in, so that they are not able to constantly be in conflict over attention from you or her.
Once your daughter’s dogs have moved in, you can then decide which dogs are invited into the main part of the house with you, as and when you wish. If Devon ever becomes aggressive towards the other dogs when you enter these dog quarters, or he is in the main house with you, immediately banish him, on the other side of the dog gate from where you happen to be. Keep doing this each and every time he shows aggression or possessive behaviour when you are around, until he eventually learns to behave in a more civilised way around the other dogs, if he wants to stay with you.
This may take time but it will be worth it for the sake of far greater future harmony between the dogs. After all, no dog can continue to guard what he is consistently denied possession of. Another possibility, if conflict seems really serious or prolonged between Devon and Diesel, is to invest in a good-sized indoor kennel. Cover this on the top and surrounding sides with a blanket, and put cosy bedding inside to make it den like. You can use this kennel to segregate the boys, taking it in turn to have one dog out and one dog in the kennel. It is not ideal, but a lot better than keeping both dogs muzzled all the time.
Diesel appears to have his own issues, and definitely needs to be taught how to settle better, throughout the day, and get out of the habit of constantly self-stimulating himself into a frenzy—which is what most so called ‘hyper activity’ in collies really amounts to. An indoor kennel, where he has to wind down for regular periods, can also help on this front, as can eliminating any possible artificial colourings or additives that could be in his diet, including treats.
It is important to understand how much you can change and improve the behaviour of any dog through much better, and more authoritative, handling and guidance on your part. But not all owners find the shift from being overly indulgent to more convincingly hardline easy. So if you feel you still need more practical ‘hands on’ help to settle the dogs in together, get additional advice from a good local canine behaviourist. Your vet should be able to refer you to one.
As far as walking the dogs together goes, I am a bit puzzled, as earlier on in your letter you said that they got on together on walks, and never fight over toys? And also, that when you went on holiday together, the dogs got on fine. My instincts are that once you get the main conflict issue sorted, re rivalry over access to you on your home turf, walks with the two dogs should pose few problems.
Amy Hatcher, behaviourist and obedience trainer, says...
Inter dog (two dogs in the same household) is unusual in dogs, it's normally bitches that can't get along together. Castration changes the gender of a dog or neutralises the dog. If one dog is kept entire and the others are not it creates an inbalance in
the pack as the result is two neutrals and a dog. It sounds like naturally Devon would be top dog but Diesel being entire has confused things. I would recommend getting Diesel castrated - particularly if he isn't being used at stud. Castration stops so much testosterone reaching the brain and the hormone is taken over by serotonin which helps a dog to relax. This may also be part of the reason that Diesel can't relax.
In addition you need to ensure that you have some good strong house rules in place so that the dogs understand the humans are the leaders. This minimalises fights and jealousy as they look to you as leaders, rather than battling it out between themselves. Some suggestions for house rules:
Create a personal space around yourselves, the dogs aren't allowed in this unless invited
Don't let them upstairs
Only allow on sofa when invited.
House rules will help to reinforce your dominance. You don't say how much exercise they get but as I am sure you know Border Collies require several hours a day in order to keep them calm and relaxed. Often a good long walk of a few hours will iron out any tension.
May issue
May issue
Friday, 31 July 2009
Tuesday, 28 July 2009
A fitting companion
I have an eight-year-old Jack Russell Terrier called Taz who is epileptic. We have had him for two years now and he's a wonderful little dog. His fits are controlled by medication and they happen roughly once a month, mostly overnight.
We are thinking of getting another dog - a companion for Taz. I have put it off for a while now due to fears about how another dog would react to Taz having a fit. Is it safe to have another dog in the family? I have heard that dogs can attack other dogs when they are having a fit. Would it be wise to keep them separate overnight for example? It is a query that I've been unable to have answered so I would appreciate any help or advice you can give me.
Tracy Lopez, Northamptonshire
Alison Logan, vet, advises:
I am a great believer in natural instinct: if you feel you would like to find a canine companion for Taz, then go for it. The fact that you have e-mailed in this query, and you imply that you have asked other people as well, means that you are giving it careful thought. It does need careful consideration, but then doubling up the canine content of your family is always a big decision to make, whether or not the first dog is epileptic!
That Taz is fairly settled on medication is a great plus point. You will already have gone through more than the owner of a dog who does not have a long-term health problem such as epilepsy, so to be even thinking about taking on another dog means that you feel in control.
It would always be a good idea to separate the two dogs at night in the initial stages, irrespective of whether or not Taz was epileptic. It is always going to be unsettling to some extent for the resident dog when a new dog joins the household, and night-time should be when both dogs can relax and sleep, re-charging the batteries ready for a new day and different challenges. Likewise, you will be able to relax and have a good night’s sleep if you do not have to worry about what might be going on down stairs, providing the new dog does not howl and pine for his previous home and keep you awake in that way!
If you do decide to go ahead with finding a new companion for Taz, I hope that all goes well. Best of luck!
Jon Bowen, behaviourist, advises:
Epilepsy is a serious condition. If a fit is severe or prolonged it can lead to a fatally high temperature, and the risk of this happening in the future is probably greater if your dog has already had one severe seizure. The aim when treating epilepsy is to medicate the dog to the point that fits stop or hardly ever happen, but the dog is still active and happy.
Initially most dogs are treated with phenobarbitone, because this is a reliable and effective treatment for epilepsy. However, it sometimes needs to be combined with other treatments such as potassium bromide (KBr). There is no standard dose of phenobarbitone that works for all dogs, so your vet will need to take regular blood samples to check what level your dog is getting. If a dog continues to have regular fits and has adequate blood levels of phenobarbitone then it is time to consider adding another drug.
Although one seizure per month sounds pretty manageable, if Taz were my dog I would hope to get a better level of control than this. On top of the fits you know about he may well be having others when he sleeping, while you are out, and he may be having a number of milder seizures that you don't notice. Your vet may have tried everything that he or she can think of, in which case Taz may be as good as he is going to get. However, despite being a common condition, epilepsy is a complex problem to treat and it often helps to have the involvement of a specialist neurologist. I suggest that you discuss the various options for improving control of this condition with your vet.
Epileptic dogs can happily share a home with other dogs, but there is always a risk of a problem. In Taz's case his fits are still quite common and the risk of there being a problem is therefore quite high. Due to the fundamentally competitive relationship between dogs, there will almost always be a need for one dog to compromise on something. This can cause stress, and stress aggravates epilepsy. You are right that some dogs may react aggressively to another dog while it is having a fit, but it is also possible that Taz may show signs of aggression if the other dog sleeps nearby and disturbs him when he is coming out of a fit. During the time immediately before and after a seizure the dog's perception may be altered; they may hallucinate or feel fearful. This can make them irritable or aggressive if another dog pesters them. To avoid this you would have to keep Taz separate from the other dog at night and when you are not in the home. My suggestion is that you don't get another dog until Taz's epilepsy is really well controlled.
We are thinking of getting another dog - a companion for Taz. I have put it off for a while now due to fears about how another dog would react to Taz having a fit. Is it safe to have another dog in the family? I have heard that dogs can attack other dogs when they are having a fit. Would it be wise to keep them separate overnight for example? It is a query that I've been unable to have answered so I would appreciate any help or advice you can give me.
Tracy Lopez, Northamptonshire
Alison Logan, vet, advises:
I am a great believer in natural instinct: if you feel you would like to find a canine companion for Taz, then go for it. The fact that you have e-mailed in this query, and you imply that you have asked other people as well, means that you are giving it careful thought. It does need careful consideration, but then doubling up the canine content of your family is always a big decision to make, whether or not the first dog is epileptic!
That Taz is fairly settled on medication is a great plus point. You will already have gone through more than the owner of a dog who does not have a long-term health problem such as epilepsy, so to be even thinking about taking on another dog means that you feel in control.
It would always be a good idea to separate the two dogs at night in the initial stages, irrespective of whether or not Taz was epileptic. It is always going to be unsettling to some extent for the resident dog when a new dog joins the household, and night-time should be when both dogs can relax and sleep, re-charging the batteries ready for a new day and different challenges. Likewise, you will be able to relax and have a good night’s sleep if you do not have to worry about what might be going on down stairs, providing the new dog does not howl and pine for his previous home and keep you awake in that way!
If you do decide to go ahead with finding a new companion for Taz, I hope that all goes well. Best of luck!
Jon Bowen, behaviourist, advises:
Epilepsy is a serious condition. If a fit is severe or prolonged it can lead to a fatally high temperature, and the risk of this happening in the future is probably greater if your dog has already had one severe seizure. The aim when treating epilepsy is to medicate the dog to the point that fits stop or hardly ever happen, but the dog is still active and happy.
Initially most dogs are treated with phenobarbitone, because this is a reliable and effective treatment for epilepsy. However, it sometimes needs to be combined with other treatments such as potassium bromide (KBr). There is no standard dose of phenobarbitone that works for all dogs, so your vet will need to take regular blood samples to check what level your dog is getting. If a dog continues to have regular fits and has adequate blood levels of phenobarbitone then it is time to consider adding another drug.
Although one seizure per month sounds pretty manageable, if Taz were my dog I would hope to get a better level of control than this. On top of the fits you know about he may well be having others when he sleeping, while you are out, and he may be having a number of milder seizures that you don't notice. Your vet may have tried everything that he or she can think of, in which case Taz may be as good as he is going to get. However, despite being a common condition, epilepsy is a complex problem to treat and it often helps to have the involvement of a specialist neurologist. I suggest that you discuss the various options for improving control of this condition with your vet.
Epileptic dogs can happily share a home with other dogs, but there is always a risk of a problem. In Taz's case his fits are still quite common and the risk of there being a problem is therefore quite high. Due to the fundamentally competitive relationship between dogs, there will almost always be a need for one dog to compromise on something. This can cause stress, and stress aggravates epilepsy. You are right that some dogs may react aggressively to another dog while it is having a fit, but it is also possible that Taz may show signs of aggression if the other dog sleeps nearby and disturbs him when he is coming out of a fit. During the time immediately before and after a seizure the dog's perception may be altered; they may hallucinate or feel fearful. This can make them irritable or aggressive if another dog pesters them. To avoid this you would have to keep Taz separate from the other dog at night and when you are not in the home. My suggestion is that you don't get another dog until Taz's epilepsy is really well controlled.
Thursday, 23 July 2009
Harnessing the persistant cough
A few years ago my dog got kennel cough, ever since whenever he pulls on his lead he coughs like he still has kennel cough. This can be embarrassing if we're out and about as it appears like I'm walking an infectious dog. Has the cough weakened him?
Should I consider using a harness so I don't irritate his throat. He normally walks to heel nicely it's just that sometimes there can be something he particularly want to sniff that causes him to pull against the collar.
What's the gentlest collar and will they work on a very hairy dog? He's a Beardie in full coat. How do you know what size to buy?
Geraldine Stevens, Dewsbury
Kennel cough is often called infectious tracheitis, meaning an infection causing inflammation of the windpipe or trachea. There may well be residual scarring or damage in your dog’s windpipe causing him to cough when he pulls on his lead against his collar.
Alternatively, if a dog has been pulling against his collar for much of his life when walked on collar and lead, it is not unusual for the windpipe to become very sensitive, resulting in a cough when the slightest pressure is applied to it.
If a dog will not walk nicely on collar and lead, or slip lead, then it is far more preferable to use a body harness or head halter. I know that there are members of the public who take one look at a head halter and shy away, mistaking it for a muzzle. I could only walk our Labbie on a head halter when I was recovering from a whiplash injury to my neck, and gave up explaining to people that it was not a muzzle because the main thing was that I could walk her in comfort. We have to walk half a mile down a country lane at either end of our walk, so it is important for both of us to enjoy that part of the walk as much as the major part when Pippin is running free. Using a head halter or body harness does give the handler far more control, and your dog will be far more inclined to walk without pulling, whilst sparing the neck area because there will be no pressure applied there at all.
Ponder this: you would not think of walking a horse with a rope around his or her neck, would you? We expect to see some form of head halter on a horse, so why not on a dog? I would certainly try walking your dog on a head halter and a body harness (separately, not at the same time!) and see which he seems to prefer, and which you find easier to fit. With a head halter in particular, you may want to still have a lead attached to his collar the first few times that you use it so that there is no pressure on the halter. It will be a strange and different feeling from being walked on collar and lead, which may take your dog a little time to accept. Pippin still intermittently rubs at her head with her paws, or against my legs, but it is ideal when walking in crowds, for example, for the greater degree of control one has, as well as avoiding pressure being applied to the windpipe.
Alison Logan, Vet
Sadly this is more common than you think - when a collar is attached to a lead it causes painful pressure to the sensitive areas around a dog's neck and throat causing symptoms such as those you describe. A collar and lead can also result in collapsed trachea and certain eye disorders (see web link http://www.dog-games.co.uk/forms/207.pdf and our web page
http://www.dog-games.co.uk/harness.htm which has other links as terms of reference).
It is very important to have a well fitted harness that does not have a bar across the front of the dog, at the base of the neck, as this can also aggravate dog's damaged throats as well.
Soft padding is also a factor to bear in mind, as narrow webbing made of nylon or polypropylene will rub against the dog's soft coat causing friction, soreness and breaking of the delicate coat. Many dogs find these styles of harness just as uncomfortable as a collar and pull to get away from the pain that they experience, not realising that their pulling causes
the pain in the first place. Pulling seems to be the only answer for the dog because the quicker it can get to its destination the sooner the painful collar or harness will be removed.
As the original inventor of the Fleece Lined Harness (which includes padding on the girth strap as well as the arm pit area which is also a very sensitive area for a dog) and also the Perfect Fit Harness I recognised the drawbacks of collars and webbing harnesses and designed these two styles of walking harnesses to overcome all these problems. Both have soft fleece
padding which sits snugly against the dog's body, preventing movement and friction burns. We sell both styles of harness not only on our web shop but also wholesale to veterinary surgeries, rescue centres, groomers, pet shops etc all over the world - all of which have seen first hand the amazing difference to a dog's quality of life when taken for a walk on their fleece lined harness and lead.
With regards to sizing - our web shop has breed charts for both styles of harness and if you are still unsure as to what size to order just contact our sales team on info@dog-games.co.uk or 01684 569553 (Mon - Fri 10 - 4) with your dog's breed (or description if a cross breed), age,sex, and the dog's girth measurement (that is measure your dog's body just behind
the front legs, making sure it is a nice snug fit against the dog).
Sally Hopkins - http://www.dog-games.co.uk/author.htm
Should I consider using a harness so I don't irritate his throat. He normally walks to heel nicely it's just that sometimes there can be something he particularly want to sniff that causes him to pull against the collar.
What's the gentlest collar and will they work on a very hairy dog? He's a Beardie in full coat. How do you know what size to buy?
Geraldine Stevens, Dewsbury
Kennel cough is often called infectious tracheitis, meaning an infection causing inflammation of the windpipe or trachea. There may well be residual scarring or damage in your dog’s windpipe causing him to cough when he pulls on his lead against his collar.
Alternatively, if a dog has been pulling against his collar for much of his life when walked on collar and lead, it is not unusual for the windpipe to become very sensitive, resulting in a cough when the slightest pressure is applied to it.
If a dog will not walk nicely on collar and lead, or slip lead, then it is far more preferable to use a body harness or head halter. I know that there are members of the public who take one look at a head halter and shy away, mistaking it for a muzzle. I could only walk our Labbie on a head halter when I was recovering from a whiplash injury to my neck, and gave up explaining to people that it was not a muzzle because the main thing was that I could walk her in comfort. We have to walk half a mile down a country lane at either end of our walk, so it is important for both of us to enjoy that part of the walk as much as the major part when Pippin is running free. Using a head halter or body harness does give the handler far more control, and your dog will be far more inclined to walk without pulling, whilst sparing the neck area because there will be no pressure applied there at all.
Ponder this: you would not think of walking a horse with a rope around his or her neck, would you? We expect to see some form of head halter on a horse, so why not on a dog? I would certainly try walking your dog on a head halter and a body harness (separately, not at the same time!) and see which he seems to prefer, and which you find easier to fit. With a head halter in particular, you may want to still have a lead attached to his collar the first few times that you use it so that there is no pressure on the halter. It will be a strange and different feeling from being walked on collar and lead, which may take your dog a little time to accept. Pippin still intermittently rubs at her head with her paws, or against my legs, but it is ideal when walking in crowds, for example, for the greater degree of control one has, as well as avoiding pressure being applied to the windpipe.
Alison Logan, Vet
Sadly this is more common than you think - when a collar is attached to a lead it causes painful pressure to the sensitive areas around a dog's neck and throat causing symptoms such as those you describe. A collar and lead can also result in collapsed trachea and certain eye disorders (see web link http://www.dog-games.co.uk/forms/207.pdf and our web page
http://www.dog-games.co.uk/harness.htm which has other links as terms of reference).
It is very important to have a well fitted harness that does not have a bar across the front of the dog, at the base of the neck, as this can also aggravate dog's damaged throats as well.
Soft padding is also a factor to bear in mind, as narrow webbing made of nylon or polypropylene will rub against the dog's soft coat causing friction, soreness and breaking of the delicate coat. Many dogs find these styles of harness just as uncomfortable as a collar and pull to get away from the pain that they experience, not realising that their pulling causes
the pain in the first place. Pulling seems to be the only answer for the dog because the quicker it can get to its destination the sooner the painful collar or harness will be removed.
As the original inventor of the Fleece Lined Harness (which includes padding on the girth strap as well as the arm pit area which is also a very sensitive area for a dog) and also the Perfect Fit Harness I recognised the drawbacks of collars and webbing harnesses and designed these two styles of walking harnesses to overcome all these problems. Both have soft fleece
padding which sits snugly against the dog's body, preventing movement and friction burns. We sell both styles of harness not only on our web shop but also wholesale to veterinary surgeries, rescue centres, groomers, pet shops etc all over the world - all of which have seen first hand the amazing difference to a dog's quality of life when taken for a walk on their fleece lined harness and lead.
With regards to sizing - our web shop has breed charts for both styles of harness and if you are still unsure as to what size to order just contact our sales team on info@dog-games.co.uk or 01684 569553 (Mon - Fri 10 - 4) with your dog's breed (or description if a cross breed), age,sex, and the dog's girth measurement (that is measure your dog's body just behind
the front legs, making sure it is a nice snug fit against the dog).
Sally Hopkins - http://www.dog-games.co.uk/author.htm
Tuesday, 21 July 2009
Can dogs catch Swine Flu?
Hello fellow dog lovers!
I feel a bit daft for asking this BUT Does anyone know if dogs are at risk from swine flu? I'm Mum to a English Springer spaniel and as a first time dog owner as fussy as I was as a new Mum many years ago.
Fiona James
From the NHS website:
There is currently no evidence that pets are susceptible to this new strain of flu. The swine flu virus appears to be passing only from person to person or from human to swine. In general, flu viruses commonly infect just one species; for example, dogs and cats do not get seasonal flu from their owners.
I feel a bit daft for asking this BUT Does anyone know if dogs are at risk from swine flu? I'm Mum to a English Springer spaniel and as a first time dog owner as fussy as I was as a new Mum many years ago.
Fiona James
From the NHS website:
There is currently no evidence that pets are susceptible to this new strain of flu. The swine flu virus appears to be passing only from person to person or from human to swine. In general, flu viruses commonly infect just one species; for example, dogs and cats do not get seasonal flu from their owners.
Thursday, 16 July 2009
In deep water
My three-year-old Labrador, Daisy, is obsessed with swimming. I know it is a natural trait of her breed, but it has got so extreme that I can't walk her anywhere off-lead. Daisy can smell water wherever we are and will run until she finds it - nothing will distract her attention. She has even charged across a busy road to get to a pond on the other side, which has now made me afraid to let her run free.
Can anyone suggest a solution? I don't want to rid her of her natural instincts, but I need to have more control over my water baby.
Jo Richards, by email
Amy Hatcher, behaviourist and obedience trainer, says...
All breeds have their natural traits and with Labradors the number one thing seems to be swimming (and eating of course). My Border Collies are trained sheepdogs but I can still walk through a field of sheep and they won't go near unless I say so. You can achieve this by training your Labrador to go in the water on command to fetch something and then when she comes out with the article walk on and do some other training with her such as sit stays, down stays etc. Return to the pond and send her back in for a retrieve again. Don't just approach the pond and let her go in, actually encourage her by throwing something. This makes swimming 'work' rather than just a free for all. The next time she needs to be on the lead. Tell her to stay and throw the retrieve article - keep hold of the lead as she is likely to break her stay to rush in. When she relaxes and stops trying to pull you in give her the retrieve command and send her in. You need to repeat this step a few times in quick succession and then each day in various locations.
June Williams, COAPE Association of Behaviourists and Trainers, says…
Instead of scenting and chasing deer, rabbits or squirrels, your Labrador is scenting and chasing water. It is therefore, essentially a recall problem together with finding something that she will find more rewarding to do out on a walk with you. The difficulty is that, the finding and enjoying of the water is so irresistibly and intrinsically rewarding. I would work on an emergency recall and/or whistle train her. Get some professional help from an APDT member. Put her on a long line, the end of which always stays within reach. It will get you fit! Try and get her more interested in playing with a special toy that only goes out on walks. It will take time and hard work.
Can anyone suggest a solution? I don't want to rid her of her natural instincts, but I need to have more control over my water baby.
Jo Richards, by email
Amy Hatcher, behaviourist and obedience trainer, says...
All breeds have their natural traits and with Labradors the number one thing seems to be swimming (and eating of course). My Border Collies are trained sheepdogs but I can still walk through a field of sheep and they won't go near unless I say so. You can achieve this by training your Labrador to go in the water on command to fetch something and then when she comes out with the article walk on and do some other training with her such as sit stays, down stays etc. Return to the pond and send her back in for a retrieve again. Don't just approach the pond and let her go in, actually encourage her by throwing something. This makes swimming 'work' rather than just a free for all. The next time she needs to be on the lead. Tell her to stay and throw the retrieve article - keep hold of the lead as she is likely to break her stay to rush in. When she relaxes and stops trying to pull you in give her the retrieve command and send her in. You need to repeat this step a few times in quick succession and then each day in various locations.
June Williams, COAPE Association of Behaviourists and Trainers, says…
Instead of scenting and chasing deer, rabbits or squirrels, your Labrador is scenting and chasing water. It is therefore, essentially a recall problem together with finding something that she will find more rewarding to do out on a walk with you. The difficulty is that, the finding and enjoying of the water is so irresistibly and intrinsically rewarding. I would work on an emergency recall and/or whistle train her. Get some professional help from an APDT member. Put her on a long line, the end of which always stays within reach. It will get you fit! Try and get her more interested in playing with a special toy that only goes out on walks. It will take time and hard work.
Tuesday, 14 July 2009
Go to work with a dog!
I'm sure I've heard about a special day when you can take your dog to work with you, is it something that only happens in America? I'd love to persuade my boss that we could have dogs in our office without any disruption and this would be the perfect opportunity to give the idea a practical trial.
Is there anything I can show my boss to help convince him it's a good idea? Any good case histories to show him how other people make it work? Any tips to make our trial day go as smoothly as possible?
Georgia Hood, Sheffield
The day you are talking about is Take Your Dog To Work Day and it is a fundraising campaign by pet charity, The Blue Cross. It is a great opportunity for dog lovers to spend more time with their pet and extol the physical and health benefits this brings.
The date for the 2009 event has been confirmed as Wednesday 16 September.
Visit the website to register your participation and for more details on the campaign, its celebrity supporters and fundraising hints and tips.
Flora Neeson, Blue Cross
Oscar and Tess come to work most days at the Dogs Today office, and they love it although I suspect there are some days where wet feet and bits of hedge may make them slightly less of a delight for the rest of the workforce. There have been times in the magazine history where dogs have outnumbered humans, but as Tess is a bit territorial and this is her home these two are ruling the roost at the moment. Sally the Beardie was the longest-serving canine employee and she enjoyed work until she was 16. Quite near the beginning of her working career Sally carved out a reputation in credit control, famously spraying a bad debtor with liquid poo. The current workforce have obviously had less time to shine, but Tess is already on her first written warning for barking at the evening postman who collects our post. The morning postie is welcomed every day, but he does always have biscuits in his pockets and obviously loves dogs.
If you are not the boss, chances are dogs that are not fragrant and welcoming to all callers will not be allowed back after Take Your Dog to Work Day.
Therefore if you are taking part only take well behaved dogs into the workplace and take a towel!
Beverley Cuddy, Editor Dogs Today
Is there anything I can show my boss to help convince him it's a good idea? Any good case histories to show him how other people make it work? Any tips to make our trial day go as smoothly as possible?
Georgia Hood, Sheffield
The day you are talking about is Take Your Dog To Work Day and it is a fundraising campaign by pet charity, The Blue Cross. It is a great opportunity for dog lovers to spend more time with their pet and extol the physical and health benefits this brings.
The date for the 2009 event has been confirmed as Wednesday 16 September.
Visit the website to register your participation and for more details on the campaign, its celebrity supporters and fundraising hints and tips.
Flora Neeson, Blue Cross
Oscar and Tess come to work most days at the Dogs Today office, and they love it although I suspect there are some days where wet feet and bits of hedge may make them slightly less of a delight for the rest of the workforce. There have been times in the magazine history where dogs have outnumbered humans, but as Tess is a bit territorial and this is her home these two are ruling the roost at the moment. Sally the Beardie was the longest-serving canine employee and she enjoyed work until she was 16. Quite near the beginning of her working career Sally carved out a reputation in credit control, famously spraying a bad debtor with liquid poo. The current workforce have obviously had less time to shine, but Tess is already on her first written warning for barking at the evening postman who collects our post. The morning postie is welcomed every day, but he does always have biscuits in his pockets and obviously loves dogs.
If you are not the boss, chances are dogs that are not fragrant and welcoming to all callers will not be allowed back after Take Your Dog to Work Day.
Therefore if you are taking part only take well behaved dogs into the workplace and take a towel!
Beverley Cuddy, Editor Dogs Today
Monday, 13 July 2009
Dead matter
My five-year-old Labrador found a dead bird in the garden full of maggots and ate some of it before I could get it off her. She thought it would be a great game if I chased her round the garden with it dangling from her mouth!
However, I am now concerned that comsuming some of the maggots may cause her harm. Should I take her to the vet?
Vicky Harris, by email
Richard Allport, alternative vet, advises:
Yes, this has happened to me too. One of my Bedlingtons once found a decaying blackbird corpse dripping with juicy maggots and insisted on swallowing the entire carcass, maggots and all. She was fine, it’s the natural instinct of a scavenging species like canines, and it was a free meal after all! No reason why dead birds, or maggots, are particularly likely to cause any problems apart from a mildly upset stomach at the worst. This sort of behaviour might upset our human sensibilities but is no cause for alarm as far as our dogs are concerned.
However, I am now concerned that comsuming some of the maggots may cause her harm. Should I take her to the vet?
Vicky Harris, by email
Richard Allport, alternative vet, advises:
Yes, this has happened to me too. One of my Bedlingtons once found a decaying blackbird corpse dripping with juicy maggots and insisted on swallowing the entire carcass, maggots and all. She was fine, it’s the natural instinct of a scavenging species like canines, and it was a free meal after all! No reason why dead birds, or maggots, are particularly likely to cause any problems apart from a mildly upset stomach at the worst. This sort of behaviour might upset our human sensibilities but is no cause for alarm as far as our dogs are concerned.
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