Recently new neighbours moved in next door to my semi-detached, country home with a screaming baby, unneutered Tom cat and a Golden Retriever bitch. I have three German Shorthaired Pointers, one male and two bitches.
The Golden Retriever is shut out in their garden for 30-90 minutes at a time and whines to go back into the house. If I let my dogs out for a wee or a bit of fresh air, the Golden Retriever launches herself barking at the dividing fence. Fortunately I had this raised to above 6ft some time ago, so she cannot get in. The neighbours seem quite happy about her attacking the fence, whereas I have to ensure that my dogs hardly go into the garden, other than to answer the 'call of nature' and I stand there with them, telling them to ignore the other dog!.
The whining in the morning particularly distresses my male dog, who thinks the Golden Retriever wants to get into our garden and so he barks. The neighbour then complained and told me that my dogs needed a 'dog shrink' but it is his dog that is causing the problem.
Should I put my house up for sale? The previous neighbours did not have a dog, nor did they make as much noise as this new lot. What can I do?
Angela Boyd
May issue
May issue
Friday, 29 May 2009
Wednesday, 27 May 2009
Road safety
I have just rescued a wonderful adult crossbreed, who comes everywhere with me. However, I am concerned about his safety when he travels in the car as he just lies down on the back seat and is not strapped in in any way. How can I make sure my dog is safe and secure when we go for a drive and what does the law say about dogs in cars?
Millie Stanton
There are currently no legal guidelines on car safety for dogs. However a dog harness, which attaches to the seatbelt, will help ensure both you and your dog are safe when travelling. The colliding force of an average sized unrestrained dog at 30mph (e.g. a Border Collie) would be equivalent to nine 12-stone men, according to RoSPA statistics, so you’re absolutely right to consider a restraint. RAC has a selection of dog harnesses in its webshop, visit www.racshop.co.uk. These range in size from small to jumbo, prices start at £7.99. You could also consider a pet carrier, cage or guard.
If you and your dog are regular travel companions make sure you also build in plenty of stops on journeys and always have lots of water available to drink. The RAC shop stocks an excellent travel water bottle for dogs too.
Additional RAC safety tips for dogs in cars this summer:
• NEVER leave your dog in the car in direct sunlight - they can dehydrate and die quickly
• Park in the shade, leave them with a window open and a bowl of water. If you cannot park in the shade, always take your pet with you.
The RAC
Restraining a dog when travelling in the car is vital, not only for your own safety and that of your passengers, but that of your dog, too! While crates are very effective at restraining a dog and preventing them from causing a distraction, many crates break-up on impact, thus resulting in loose pieces of metal and an unrestrained dog.
The CLIX CarSafe safety harness can be plugged directly into your existing seatbelt sockets and can also be used for walking your dog. Soft neoprene padding covers all points of contact to ensure maximum protection in the event of a crash, with particular focus on the central chest protector.
The unique 'X-Cross' design creates a comfortable and ergonomic fit, keeping the harness in the optimum position, even during movement. CLIX CarSafe harness is made from approved safety-standard seat-belt material in a continuous loop, to give extra strength.
Fitting and use are easy, thanks to the double-sided adjustable buckles which enable you to clip the harness together without having to manipulate the dog's legs. The harness can be securely attached by either plugging straight into the seat-belt socket or by sliding the seat-belt through the harness. The seatbelt connector can also be tucked away so that the dog can wear it off-lead, too.
Clare Butters, The Company of Animals
A Pet Tube might be the answer.
Pet Tubes, are made from the same lightweight but super-strong fabric and to the same high specifications as the award winning Dog Bag. However they come in a useful tube shape especially designed for use on the rear seats of cars. They strap securely to the back of the seat, allowing good ventilation and visibility while keeping your dog safely on the back seat. The large Pet Tubes can be altered in length to provide more or less room for other passengers. They also make a major contribution to keeping dog hairs etc. off the seats! Pet Tubes come in two sizes, and prices start at £59.95. Call 015396 21884 for further details, or visit www.roofbox.co.uk
Lucy, The Roofbox Company
Millie Stanton
There are currently no legal guidelines on car safety for dogs. However a dog harness, which attaches to the seatbelt, will help ensure both you and your dog are safe when travelling. The colliding force of an average sized unrestrained dog at 30mph (e.g. a Border Collie) would be equivalent to nine 12-stone men, according to RoSPA statistics, so you’re absolutely right to consider a restraint. RAC has a selection of dog harnesses in its webshop, visit www.racshop.co.uk. These range in size from small to jumbo, prices start at £7.99. You could also consider a pet carrier, cage or guard.
If you and your dog are regular travel companions make sure you also build in plenty of stops on journeys and always have lots of water available to drink. The RAC shop stocks an excellent travel water bottle for dogs too.
Additional RAC safety tips for dogs in cars this summer:
• NEVER leave your dog in the car in direct sunlight - they can dehydrate and die quickly
• Park in the shade, leave them with a window open and a bowl of water. If you cannot park in the shade, always take your pet with you.
The RAC
Restraining a dog when travelling in the car is vital, not only for your own safety and that of your passengers, but that of your dog, too! While crates are very effective at restraining a dog and preventing them from causing a distraction, many crates break-up on impact, thus resulting in loose pieces of metal and an unrestrained dog.
The CLIX CarSafe safety harness can be plugged directly into your existing seatbelt sockets and can also be used for walking your dog. Soft neoprene padding covers all points of contact to ensure maximum protection in the event of a crash, with particular focus on the central chest protector.
The unique 'X-Cross' design creates a comfortable and ergonomic fit, keeping the harness in the optimum position, even during movement. CLIX CarSafe harness is made from approved safety-standard seat-belt material in a continuous loop, to give extra strength.
Fitting and use are easy, thanks to the double-sided adjustable buckles which enable you to clip the harness together without having to manipulate the dog's legs. The harness can be securely attached by either plugging straight into the seat-belt socket or by sliding the seat-belt through the harness. The seatbelt connector can also be tucked away so that the dog can wear it off-lead, too.
Clare Butters, The Company of Animals
A Pet Tube might be the answer.
Pet Tubes, are made from the same lightweight but super-strong fabric and to the same high specifications as the award winning Dog Bag. However they come in a useful tube shape especially designed for use on the rear seats of cars. They strap securely to the back of the seat, allowing good ventilation and visibility while keeping your dog safely on the back seat. The large Pet Tubes can be altered in length to provide more or less room for other passengers. They also make a major contribution to keeping dog hairs etc. off the seats! Pet Tubes come in two sizes, and prices start at £59.95. Call 015396 21884 for further details, or visit www.roofbox.co.uk
Lucy, The Roofbox Company
Tuesday, 26 May 2009
A wee problem
Hello
I have a border collie spayed bitch who is approximately 13 years old (she is a rescue dog so we are unsure exactly). Recently she has started leaving small damp patches occasionally while she is sleeping. She does not know she is doing this and is not asking to go outside. She has no discomfort going outside when she wants to. The vet did a range of blood tests earlier this year (for an unrelated problem) and nothing was flagged up. This seems to be becoming more frequent (2-3 days a month as opposed to once every 2-3 months last year). I'm aware that vets often prescribe either Propalin or Incurin for urinary incontinence when it gets to be a problem, but wondered if anyone has any alternative remedies that may be tried? We haven't seen any increase in water intake.
She is currently taking carprofen, glucosamine and cod liver oil for her arthritis.
Regards
Kathryn Cowin
Alison Logan, vet, advises:
Both my Border Collies, mother Nan and daughter Judy, developed urinary incontinence later in life, interestingly round about the thirteen years old mark. I confess that it actually took me some time to appreciate that Nan was leaking whilst asleep because the Vetbed on which she slept was so efficient at soaking up the urine!
This was back in the early 1990’s, when treatment options were limited. Vivitonin (Intervet) had recently appeared and helping urinary incontinence was mentioned as a potential beneficial side-effect. I often call it ‘the geriatric pep pill’ and it certainly stopped first Nan and then Judy from having urinary incontinence, as well as improving their general demeanour.
They each lived on into their sixteenth year with dignity.
Nick Thompson, holistic vet advises:
Causticum 30 or 200c is the first homeopathic remedy to think of when dealing with mild incontinence in spayed bitches. It sounds like you've gone through diagnostic options with your vet. Well done. It can be a bit dangerous to just try remedies willy-nilly as leaking in older dogs can be signs of kidney disease, cystitis, Cushing's disease or diabetes, for example.
Causticum would be dosed twice daily for five days, then daily for 10 days to assess response. After this, dose minimally as necessary. The other two remedies I use in this situation as first prescriptions would commonly include: Pulsatilla (involuntary urination during sleep) and Kreosotum (leaking during deep sleep) dosed similarly.
I like using acupuncture in these cases. It's quick, easy and very effective, often. To find a veterinary acupuncturist near you check out the website for the Association of British Veterinary Acupuncturists (abva.co.uk).
Once or twice I've seen bitches who are otherwise okay getting leaky after severe exercise. Severe exercise for a 13-year-old collie is very different from that for a three-year-old, so you have to take this into account. I've also got an older bitch on my books who leaks when she is given a certain type of doggie treat (junk food - grrr). It's worth taking an open look to see if there is any association with food or exercise or any other predisposing factors, however weird or inexplicable they may seem.
I have a border collie spayed bitch who is approximately 13 years old (she is a rescue dog so we are unsure exactly). Recently she has started leaving small damp patches occasionally while she is sleeping. She does not know she is doing this and is not asking to go outside. She has no discomfort going outside when she wants to. The vet did a range of blood tests earlier this year (for an unrelated problem) and nothing was flagged up. This seems to be becoming more frequent (2-3 days a month as opposed to once every 2-3 months last year). I'm aware that vets often prescribe either Propalin or Incurin for urinary incontinence when it gets to be a problem, but wondered if anyone has any alternative remedies that may be tried? We haven't seen any increase in water intake.
She is currently taking carprofen, glucosamine and cod liver oil for her arthritis.
Regards
Kathryn Cowin
Alison Logan, vet, advises:
Both my Border Collies, mother Nan and daughter Judy, developed urinary incontinence later in life, interestingly round about the thirteen years old mark. I confess that it actually took me some time to appreciate that Nan was leaking whilst asleep because the Vetbed on which she slept was so efficient at soaking up the urine!
This was back in the early 1990’s, when treatment options were limited. Vivitonin (Intervet) had recently appeared and helping urinary incontinence was mentioned as a potential beneficial side-effect. I often call it ‘the geriatric pep pill’ and it certainly stopped first Nan and then Judy from having urinary incontinence, as well as improving their general demeanour.
They each lived on into their sixteenth year with dignity.
Nick Thompson, holistic vet advises:
Causticum 30 or 200c is the first homeopathic remedy to think of when dealing with mild incontinence in spayed bitches. It sounds like you've gone through diagnostic options with your vet. Well done. It can be a bit dangerous to just try remedies willy-nilly as leaking in older dogs can be signs of kidney disease, cystitis, Cushing's disease or diabetes, for example.
Causticum would be dosed twice daily for five days, then daily for 10 days to assess response. After this, dose minimally as necessary. The other two remedies I use in this situation as first prescriptions would commonly include: Pulsatilla (involuntary urination during sleep) and Kreosotum (leaking during deep sleep) dosed similarly.
I like using acupuncture in these cases. It's quick, easy and very effective, often. To find a veterinary acupuncturist near you check out the website for the Association of British Veterinary Acupuncturists (abva.co.uk).
Once or twice I've seen bitches who are otherwise okay getting leaky after severe exercise. Severe exercise for a 13-year-old collie is very different from that for a three-year-old, so you have to take this into account. I've also got an older bitch on my books who leaks when she is given a certain type of doggie treat (junk food - grrr). It's worth taking an open look to see if there is any association with food or exercise or any other predisposing factors, however weird or inexplicable they may seem.
Saturday, 23 May 2009
Going through the motions!
Just been watching Victoria Stillwell on It's me or the Dog USA. She was invited in to a houseful of Pugs who were all eating each other's poo. Gross!
Victoria advocated a method whereby you train each dog to back away from a flag which the owners have to put in the poo to mark it.
And was it just me, but did you see the poo? It was really yellowy green and all slimy. The consistency of tomato paste! You couldn't have stood a flag up in that poo as it was just so liquidy. And as for the shovel method of disposal - forget it!
Made me want to ask the TV are those Pugs getting too rich a diet? Are Pugs less able to digest than other dogs? Do all Pugs poo yellow/green mush?
Which brings me on to my indelicate question!
What constitutes a good healthy dog turd?
There used to be a show on TV were a blond nutritionist was always looking at people's poo and telling them where their diet was going wrong.
What would a yellowy/greeny slimy poo say about a dog's digestion? And what is the perfect poo anyway?
Should it be bulky and brown? Should the dogs go once a day? Twice a day? More?
And while we are here... that old chesnut! Why don't we see white dog poo anymore?
Beverley Cuddy, Editor Dogs Today
How much time do we dog-owners spend thinking about dog poo?!
To put a different spin on an often-quoted addage, ‘What you poo reflects what you eat’. A dog fed a diet high in indigestible fibre will pass a bigger volume of poo more frequently than a dog fed a highly digestible diet.
There is also the individual dog’s digestive system to consider. Just like people have individual poo-habits with regard to frequency, nature of poo etc (what did possess you to start me on this, Beverley!), so to with dogs. One of the Border Collies of my childhood would poo several times during a walk, the poo becoming softer each time until he finally passed just a little faecal liquid, reflecting the expulsion of poo from higher and higher up the gut. Pippin, on the other hand, only poos once, ten minutes into a walk, and always at the same place if it is our regular dog walk.
Picking up after your dog serves the useful purpose, however, of enabling a check to be kept on your dog’s faeces. Any change from the normal consistency or pattern of frequency may indicate a problem which needs investigation. How my clients’ faces drop when I request a faeces sample! The lab does not require the full load in a poo bag so we do provide universal containers with really dinky shovels.
You are right about the white poo. I have not seen any in years. I had always thought it was old dog poo so perhaps it is a reflection of more dog poo being scooped nowadays, coupled with changes in dietary formulation because ‘Googling’ threw up the suggestion that it reflected a high calcium content in the diet.
Alison Logan, vet
Victoria advocated a method whereby you train each dog to back away from a flag which the owners have to put in the poo to mark it.
And was it just me, but did you see the poo? It was really yellowy green and all slimy. The consistency of tomato paste! You couldn't have stood a flag up in that poo as it was just so liquidy. And as for the shovel method of disposal - forget it!
Made me want to ask the TV are those Pugs getting too rich a diet? Are Pugs less able to digest than other dogs? Do all Pugs poo yellow/green mush?
Which brings me on to my indelicate question!
What constitutes a good healthy dog turd?
There used to be a show on TV were a blond nutritionist was always looking at people's poo and telling them where their diet was going wrong.
What would a yellowy/greeny slimy poo say about a dog's digestion? And what is the perfect poo anyway?
Should it be bulky and brown? Should the dogs go once a day? Twice a day? More?
And while we are here... that old chesnut! Why don't we see white dog poo anymore?
Beverley Cuddy, Editor Dogs Today
How much time do we dog-owners spend thinking about dog poo?!
To put a different spin on an often-quoted addage, ‘What you poo reflects what you eat’. A dog fed a diet high in indigestible fibre will pass a bigger volume of poo more frequently than a dog fed a highly digestible diet.
There is also the individual dog’s digestive system to consider. Just like people have individual poo-habits with regard to frequency, nature of poo etc (what did possess you to start me on this, Beverley!), so to with dogs. One of the Border Collies of my childhood would poo several times during a walk, the poo becoming softer each time until he finally passed just a little faecal liquid, reflecting the expulsion of poo from higher and higher up the gut. Pippin, on the other hand, only poos once, ten minutes into a walk, and always at the same place if it is our regular dog walk.
Picking up after your dog serves the useful purpose, however, of enabling a check to be kept on your dog’s faeces. Any change from the normal consistency or pattern of frequency may indicate a problem which needs investigation. How my clients’ faces drop when I request a faeces sample! The lab does not require the full load in a poo bag so we do provide universal containers with really dinky shovels.
You are right about the white poo. I have not seen any in years. I had always thought it was old dog poo so perhaps it is a reflection of more dog poo being scooped nowadays, coupled with changes in dietary formulation because ‘Googling’ threw up the suggestion that it reflected a high calcium content in the diet.
Alison Logan, vet
Friday, 22 May 2009
Check out
We all know that choke chains are a big no-no in training, but what about so-called 'half-checks'? I assumed they'd be frowned upon too, but they seem very popular - even in training classes. Are they cruel?
Viv Green, by email
Half checks come under various names, such as Martingale collar or 'combi' collar, and as the name suggests, part of the collar is made up of a chain, with the rest being like a traditional flat collar.
Like a full choke chain, the potential is there to use a half check inappropriately - to stop the dog from pulling by the collar tightening around the neck and effectively choking the poor animal. But then, a standard collar can be used cruelly too if the handler is intent on using harsh methods when training.
Half checks have their advocates. Some owners of heavy-coated dogs sometimes prefer half-checks, as they do not affect the neck coat as much as an ordinary collar, and they also stop narrow-headed dogs (such as sighthounds) backing out of a collar and running off. And for those with arthritic hands, who may find buckles difficult to negotiate, they are easier to put on a dog.
"The APDT has no issue with members using half-check collars for these reasons, provided they are fitted correctly and not used to jerk and copy the action of a full choke chain in any way," said a spokesperson for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.
Correct fitting is crucial, to ensure they do not inflict harm. "They should be fitted so that, when tightened, the two rings actually meet around the dog's neck, with sufficient space for two fingers to be slipped against the neck, under the collar, in exactly the same way as a flat collar would be fitted. This ensures that the half-check collar cannot be used as a choke collar when the lead tightens.
"However, if fitted so that the two rings do not meet, half-check collars can, of course, be used to copy the unpleasant and painful action of a full choke chain. Unfortunately, some unenlightened owners still use the collar with the intention to jerk, choke and intimidate dogs. To make matters worse, it has recently become fashionable again to fit collars that slip, tight up behind the dog's ears. This disgusting practice, seem by some as a 'miracle' that stops dogs from pulling, does so because when the lead tightens the collar causes extreme pain to the TMJs (temporomandibular joints - hinges of the jaws) and the pressure points at the base of the skull. The UK APDT does not endorse methods of training that cause pain and discomfort so would take seriously a complaint against a member using this collar contrary to our code of practice and ethic of kind, fair, effective training."
The APDT concludes by saying, "It is most definitely against the UK APDT policy to use any collar to jerk, pull or choke a dog."
Claire Horton-Bussey, Dogs Today
Viv Green, by email
Half checks come under various names, such as Martingale collar or 'combi' collar, and as the name suggests, part of the collar is made up of a chain, with the rest being like a traditional flat collar.
Like a full choke chain, the potential is there to use a half check inappropriately - to stop the dog from pulling by the collar tightening around the neck and effectively choking the poor animal. But then, a standard collar can be used cruelly too if the handler is intent on using harsh methods when training.
Half checks have their advocates. Some owners of heavy-coated dogs sometimes prefer half-checks, as they do not affect the neck coat as much as an ordinary collar, and they also stop narrow-headed dogs (such as sighthounds) backing out of a collar and running off. And for those with arthritic hands, who may find buckles difficult to negotiate, they are easier to put on a dog.
"The APDT has no issue with members using half-check collars for these reasons, provided they are fitted correctly and not used to jerk and copy the action of a full choke chain in any way," said a spokesperson for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.
Correct fitting is crucial, to ensure they do not inflict harm. "They should be fitted so that, when tightened, the two rings actually meet around the dog's neck, with sufficient space for two fingers to be slipped against the neck, under the collar, in exactly the same way as a flat collar would be fitted. This ensures that the half-check collar cannot be used as a choke collar when the lead tightens.
"However, if fitted so that the two rings do not meet, half-check collars can, of course, be used to copy the unpleasant and painful action of a full choke chain. Unfortunately, some unenlightened owners still use the collar with the intention to jerk, choke and intimidate dogs. To make matters worse, it has recently become fashionable again to fit collars that slip, tight up behind the dog's ears. This disgusting practice, seem by some as a 'miracle' that stops dogs from pulling, does so because when the lead tightens the collar causes extreme pain to the TMJs (temporomandibular joints - hinges of the jaws) and the pressure points at the base of the skull. The UK APDT does not endorse methods of training that cause pain and discomfort so would take seriously a complaint against a member using this collar contrary to our code of practice and ethic of kind, fair, effective training."
The APDT concludes by saying, "It is most definitely against the UK APDT policy to use any collar to jerk, pull or choke a dog."
Claire Horton-Bussey, Dogs Today
Wednesday, 20 May 2009
Why has my dog gone lame?
I don't know if anyone out there can help shed any ideas regarding my Lurcher 'Rea'. She is a rescue, and we think she is now about 10 years old. I have had her for over four years and love her to bits but over the last few months, little things have been happening that have been causing concern.
We noticed her tail stopped wagging and was hanging slightly limp - she didn't appear to be in any pain, although she had earlier been running with our other rescue Saluki 'Dino' and the two of them had clashed and Rea had rolled over onto her tail and yelped. As she appeared to recover from this, we just carried on as usual.
A short while later - as in a month or so - one of her back legs has become lame. She isn't dragging it, but seems to be forcibly holding it off the ground. To get around she has been relying on her one working back leg which doesn't
look very comfortable at all. We took her to the vet as this didn't clear up after a day or so, and clearly was causing her discomfort. The vet prescribed anti-inflammatries and lead walks etc. She got on ok with these although after a bit, it needed the dose to be increased. Still, she was not really putting any pressure on the leg. We returned again to the vet, and this time X-rays were taken. It appeared to show a displaced hip which the vet feels she has possibly had since birth. She also felt the X-ray showed either arthritis or a tumour - she isn't sure which. She carried on with the treatment for arthritis.
We went back again for more tablets and she is going to conduct more X-rays. She feels that the length of time that Rea has been on the medication, she shouldn't really be as lame as she is on this leg, unless something 'bigger' is going on which she is not sure of. I feel it's just happened so suddenly and lasting for longer than I had anticipated, that I am not sure what it is. I am not sure whether the displaced hip is causing arthritis and would it be this severe that she really doesn't want to put pressure down etc. The vet is hinting that it may possibly be a tumour, but is not too sure until the other X-rays are done. Has anyone any other ideas? I really just want to ensure that Rea is as comfortable as possible and that we have covered all possiblities of what the issue may be. I would really appreciate it if everyone took some time to consider and respond.
Andrea
A common cause of hindleg lameness in older dogs is damaged or ruptured anterior cruciate ligament. This is located in the stifle joint. This might explain the sudden onset lameness. Perhaps your vet has already checked this but it might be worth another look.
John Burns BVMS MRCVS, Burns Pet Nutrition
I can understand how worrying this must be for you because we expect our dogs to run around and enjoy their exercise. A lame dog who does not improve on anti-inflammatories certainly needs further investigation so that a diagnosis can be made and appropriate treatment instigated, if possible.
You mention that your vet has found that Rea has a displaced hip. I imagine this is actually hip dysplasia because action would have been undertaken in an attempt to replace an acutely displaced or luxated hip. Hip dysplasia is a developmental problem where the hip joints are not the tightly fitting ball and socket joints one expects. It can become apparent at a young age, or be diagnosed at routine hip score assessment, or it may be picked up later in life on investigation of lameness when the effects of the body trying to stabilise the hip joints has resulted in arthritis. It may therefore be an incidental finding in Rea’s case, especially as she has not improved with anti-inflammatory painkillers.
I am intrigued by your description of Rea seeming to be forcibly holding a hindlimb off the ground. Is this the classic ‘tiptoe’ stance of a dog who has acutely ruptured a cruciate ligament? If so, then the problem lies within the stifle, and I wonder whether this is the joint your vet is planning to radiograph next?
Now, and this may be a red herring in your description, you do mention Rea’s tail hanging limply after the traumatic episode which seems to have started her problem. Although you say that she seemed to recover from this, so I assume you mean that she is now wagging her tail once more, I wonder whether she hurt her back when she was bowled over. The hindlimb lameness could therefore be sciatica, for example.
So, although one always worries about something sinister lurking, there are still possible orthopaedic explanations for Rea’s hindlimb lameness. Routine radiography may be sufficient to enable a diagnosis; otherwise, more involved procedures involving contrast media or different imaging methods may be necessary.
I do hope a diagnosis is reached which enables Rea to be treated and resume an active life once more.
Alison Logan, vet
We noticed her tail stopped wagging and was hanging slightly limp - she didn't appear to be in any pain, although she had earlier been running with our other rescue Saluki 'Dino' and the two of them had clashed and Rea had rolled over onto her tail and yelped. As she appeared to recover from this, we just carried on as usual.
A short while later - as in a month or so - one of her back legs has become lame. She isn't dragging it, but seems to be forcibly holding it off the ground. To get around she has been relying on her one working back leg which doesn't
look very comfortable at all. We took her to the vet as this didn't clear up after a day or so, and clearly was causing her discomfort. The vet prescribed anti-inflammatries and lead walks etc. She got on ok with these although after a bit, it needed the dose to be increased. Still, she was not really putting any pressure on the leg. We returned again to the vet, and this time X-rays were taken. It appeared to show a displaced hip which the vet feels she has possibly had since birth. She also felt the X-ray showed either arthritis or a tumour - she isn't sure which. She carried on with the treatment for arthritis.
We went back again for more tablets and she is going to conduct more X-rays. She feels that the length of time that Rea has been on the medication, she shouldn't really be as lame as she is on this leg, unless something 'bigger' is going on which she is not sure of. I feel it's just happened so suddenly and lasting for longer than I had anticipated, that I am not sure what it is. I am not sure whether the displaced hip is causing arthritis and would it be this severe that she really doesn't want to put pressure down etc. The vet is hinting that it may possibly be a tumour, but is not too sure until the other X-rays are done. Has anyone any other ideas? I really just want to ensure that Rea is as comfortable as possible and that we have covered all possiblities of what the issue may be. I would really appreciate it if everyone took some time to consider and respond.
Andrea
A common cause of hindleg lameness in older dogs is damaged or ruptured anterior cruciate ligament. This is located in the stifle joint. This might explain the sudden onset lameness. Perhaps your vet has already checked this but it might be worth another look.
John Burns BVMS MRCVS, Burns Pet Nutrition
I can understand how worrying this must be for you because we expect our dogs to run around and enjoy their exercise. A lame dog who does not improve on anti-inflammatories certainly needs further investigation so that a diagnosis can be made and appropriate treatment instigated, if possible.
You mention that your vet has found that Rea has a displaced hip. I imagine this is actually hip dysplasia because action would have been undertaken in an attempt to replace an acutely displaced or luxated hip. Hip dysplasia is a developmental problem where the hip joints are not the tightly fitting ball and socket joints one expects. It can become apparent at a young age, or be diagnosed at routine hip score assessment, or it may be picked up later in life on investigation of lameness when the effects of the body trying to stabilise the hip joints has resulted in arthritis. It may therefore be an incidental finding in Rea’s case, especially as she has not improved with anti-inflammatory painkillers.
I am intrigued by your description of Rea seeming to be forcibly holding a hindlimb off the ground. Is this the classic ‘tiptoe’ stance of a dog who has acutely ruptured a cruciate ligament? If so, then the problem lies within the stifle, and I wonder whether this is the joint your vet is planning to radiograph next?
Now, and this may be a red herring in your description, you do mention Rea’s tail hanging limply after the traumatic episode which seems to have started her problem. Although you say that she seemed to recover from this, so I assume you mean that she is now wagging her tail once more, I wonder whether she hurt her back when she was bowled over. The hindlimb lameness could therefore be sciatica, for example.
So, although one always worries about something sinister lurking, there are still possible orthopaedic explanations for Rea’s hindlimb lameness. Routine radiography may be sufficient to enable a diagnosis; otherwise, more involved procedures involving contrast media or different imaging methods may be necessary.
I do hope a diagnosis is reached which enables Rea to be treated and resume an active life once more.
Alison Logan, vet
Monday, 18 May 2009
Help for the carers
Hi there,
I have a gorgeous, almost two year old mixed breed bitch. My girl has a very rare cancer called 'angiofibrolipoma'. It started in a mammary gland but now goes down her right hind leg, through the hole in the pelvis and is quite close to the spine. She limps as the back leg is affected. I have been assured that she is NOT in pain.
The original prognosis was that she would manage about another six months!! That date came and went last autumn.
For a young girl she sleeps alot and sleeps deeply! But oh boy she can certainly run and jump. I can always see when she's overdone it!! On a couple of walks she has even collapsed, all she needs is a few moments and then she's up again.
I was advised to let her run, live and enjoy life. There is no cure. I would love more information on this elusive demon. Most of all I would love to speak to someone who's been through or is going through what we are now, with this particular tumour.
I am aware that it will be a miracle if you can help me!!
Yours most sincerely
Miss Jill Dickson
jill.dickson@tiscali.co.uk
This certainly is a rare tumour – when I ‘Googled’ it, the Think Tank with your question was the third entry to appear!
What you are really wanting, however, is reassurance now that your dog has been diagnosed with this mass, at such a young age. Your description of the location of the mass indicates that it is inoperable, so it is all about quality of life, and by that I mean for everyone, patient and carers.
A priority is, rightly, pain relief and you have been assured that your dog is not in pain. Having been in pain ever since a rear-end shunt RTA more than five years ago, pain relief is always my first priority. Pain takes over your life, whether animal or human, and it certainly reduces your quality of life markedly. Additionally, however, drugs for pain relief often have other effects on the patient. You are lucky that your dog is not in pain, but do be aware that the situation may change. Be on the look out in particular for changes in behaviour or appetite, for example, which may indicate the development of pain. There are so many options for pain relief available now.
I think you can't better the advice you have been given to ‘let her run, live and enjoy life’. Being so young, she remains young at heart despite the mass, but therefore needs more sleep than might be expected of a dog of rising two years of age. That she wants to run and jump is great, especially as she makes a quick recovery when she has overdone it. After all, it will be hard to stop her if that is how active she wants to be.
Giving an estimate of expected life expectancy after diagnosis is always hard because it is based on experience from other similar cases, and especially so with a rare condition. Having exceeded the life expectancy that she was given from diagnosis, I would simply enjoy the time that you have with her now.
Store up all the memories of your dog being so active and happy because they will always be with you.
Alison Logan, vet
As far as I can see from veterinary reports, the first case ever of angiofibrolipoma was only reported in 2002 and there have been very few since then, so she certainly has a rare cancer indeed. However, this doesn’t mean that there is any less chance of it responding to treatment. Though I wouldn’t hold out hope of a cure, there are many natural medicines and supplements that will have a good chance of slowing down the rate of growth, or even stopping further growth for a while.
If you have been reading DT for the last few months you can’t fail to have seen the cancer treatment CV247 discussed. I am seeing more and more good results with this, so it is well worth considering.
There are many other natural products, including the ‘magic mushroom’ Coriolus versicolor, antioxidants such as Selenium and Vitamins A, C and E, homoeopathic medicines including Carcinosin, Viscum album and Dr Reckeweg R17. I could go on, but the list would become very long and a little boring. I would strongly advise that you ask your vet about referring her to a vet specialising in natural therapies, and particularly one offering treatment with CV247 if possible. DT has the list of those vets that do!
Richard Allport, alternative vet
I have a gorgeous, almost two year old mixed breed bitch. My girl has a very rare cancer called 'angiofibrolipoma'. It started in a mammary gland but now goes down her right hind leg, through the hole in the pelvis and is quite close to the spine. She limps as the back leg is affected. I have been assured that she is NOT in pain.
The original prognosis was that she would manage about another six months!! That date came and went last autumn.
For a young girl she sleeps alot and sleeps deeply! But oh boy she can certainly run and jump. I can always see when she's overdone it!! On a couple of walks she has even collapsed, all she needs is a few moments and then she's up again.
I was advised to let her run, live and enjoy life. There is no cure. I would love more information on this elusive demon. Most of all I would love to speak to someone who's been through or is going through what we are now, with this particular tumour.
I am aware that it will be a miracle if you can help me!!
Yours most sincerely
Miss Jill Dickson
jill.dickson@tiscali.co.uk
This certainly is a rare tumour – when I ‘Googled’ it, the Think Tank with your question was the third entry to appear!
What you are really wanting, however, is reassurance now that your dog has been diagnosed with this mass, at such a young age. Your description of the location of the mass indicates that it is inoperable, so it is all about quality of life, and by that I mean for everyone, patient and carers.
A priority is, rightly, pain relief and you have been assured that your dog is not in pain. Having been in pain ever since a rear-end shunt RTA more than five years ago, pain relief is always my first priority. Pain takes over your life, whether animal or human, and it certainly reduces your quality of life markedly. Additionally, however, drugs for pain relief often have other effects on the patient. You are lucky that your dog is not in pain, but do be aware that the situation may change. Be on the look out in particular for changes in behaviour or appetite, for example, which may indicate the development of pain. There are so many options for pain relief available now.
I think you can't better the advice you have been given to ‘let her run, live and enjoy life’. Being so young, she remains young at heart despite the mass, but therefore needs more sleep than might be expected of a dog of rising two years of age. That she wants to run and jump is great, especially as she makes a quick recovery when she has overdone it. After all, it will be hard to stop her if that is how active she wants to be.
Giving an estimate of expected life expectancy after diagnosis is always hard because it is based on experience from other similar cases, and especially so with a rare condition. Having exceeded the life expectancy that she was given from diagnosis, I would simply enjoy the time that you have with her now.
Store up all the memories of your dog being so active and happy because they will always be with you.
Alison Logan, vet
As far as I can see from veterinary reports, the first case ever of angiofibrolipoma was only reported in 2002 and there have been very few since then, so she certainly has a rare cancer indeed. However, this doesn’t mean that there is any less chance of it responding to treatment. Though I wouldn’t hold out hope of a cure, there are many natural medicines and supplements that will have a good chance of slowing down the rate of growth, or even stopping further growth for a while.
If you have been reading DT for the last few months you can’t fail to have seen the cancer treatment CV247 discussed. I am seeing more and more good results with this, so it is well worth considering.
There are many other natural products, including the ‘magic mushroom’ Coriolus versicolor, antioxidants such as Selenium and Vitamins A, C and E, homoeopathic medicines including Carcinosin, Viscum album and Dr Reckeweg R17. I could go on, but the list would become very long and a little boring. I would strongly advise that you ask your vet about referring her to a vet specialising in natural therapies, and particularly one offering treatment with CV247 if possible. DT has the list of those vets that do!
Richard Allport, alternative vet
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