I love spending time with my three-year-old Border Collie, Maisie, and we often go away on holiday together to Pembrokeshire, where we spend a week taking long walks along the coast. However, this year I would love to have a week where we can spend quality time together doing lots of fun activities. We especially like agility and flyball, so it would be great if we could incorporate these into our holiday too. Can anyone recommend some activity holidays for dogs and their owners we could look into?
Judy Hall
May issue
May issue
Thursday, 30 April 2009
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
Walk on the wild side
I walk in Forestry Commission woodland, and, in order to have a pleasant 'circular walk' through the woods and back to my car I have to run the gauntlet of loose dogs who are left in their very large garden (several acres, so they do not need to be on the lane) with the lane gates open. These dogs are a youngish Border Collie (male - appears neutered, but leaps at car tyres every time I go past and chases my car up the lane), a Staffie bitch (about 10 years old) and a very elderly Lurcher (Collie-Deerhound and goodness knows what else). The three of them have already attacked a Greyhound bitch walking along the lane, bitten her tail and broken it.
Should I ask the Dog Warden to have a word with the owner of these dogs?
Angela Boyd
Most certainly you should speak to the Dog Warden in your area and have a word with the owners asking them to keep the dogs within their own property - if they have such a large garden there is no need for them to be out in the lane also. They could also be reported to the police as having dangerous dogs - a dangerous dog is a dog that puts any body in a state of fear or axiety it does not have to BITE or nip you. These dogs should not be left alone and unattended because as a pack they could do a lot of harm or damage to Man, Dog or Child !!
Margaret Young
Should I ask the Dog Warden to have a word with the owner of these dogs?
Angela Boyd
Most certainly you should speak to the Dog Warden in your area and have a word with the owners asking them to keep the dogs within their own property - if they have such a large garden there is no need for them to be out in the lane also. They could also be reported to the police as having dangerous dogs - a dangerous dog is a dog that puts any body in a state of fear or axiety it does not have to BITE or nip you. These dogs should not be left alone and unattended because as a pack they could do a lot of harm or damage to Man, Dog or Child !!
Margaret Young
Tuesday, 28 April 2009
Help me light up my life!
I have taken the plunge and am about to start a radical diet plan. I'm signing up to LighterLife so potentially for the next three months I will only be eating their very low cal sachets of soup, shakes and bars. I hope to lose a stone a month but would really like to tone as I go and ideally involve my dog in any exercise regime as time is an issue and I don't want to lock myself away in a gym. Is there a fitness programme we both can follow? Are there any dog charities I can raise money for while I slim? Might give me an incentive to stick to the plan.
My dog is a medium sized one and to be honest neither of us have been getting that much exercise recently so I guess we both need to build up to it!
Name and Address supplied
Anyone else about to start a different type of weight loss regime? Maybe we could follow a few dog owners and get some fitness advisors to help. I know Tailwaggers Club Trust would love you to set up a JustGiving page for your sponsored slim!
My dog is a medium sized one and to be honest neither of us have been getting that much exercise recently so I guess we both need to build up to it!
Name and Address supplied
Anyone else about to start a different type of weight loss regime? Maybe we could follow a few dog owners and get some fitness advisors to help. I know Tailwaggers Club Trust would love you to set up a JustGiving page for your sponsored slim!
Grape gripes
I recently saw a picture of a friends dog picking its own grapes from a vine in a back garden. I mentioned to the owner (who is a doctor) that grapes may be poisonous to dogs. He replied that his dog had been picking its own grapes from the garden for the last 10 years and to no apparent harm.
My friend the doctor said that he had looked into this matter and found that it was a chemical which is sprayed on to the grapes during the growing process or during the washing and getting them to the supermarket which is harmful to the dogs - not the grapes themselves! What do you think?
Sarah Morris
Hillingdon, Middlesex
Alison Logan, vet, advises:
The whole question of just how much of a danger grapes pose to dogs has not, to my knowledge, been answered. It was posed in the Dogs Today Think Tank in January 2009 where I described in detail the effects and what treatment can help.
It does concern me, not only as a practising veterinary surgeon but also as a dog-owner because my Lab Pippin is notorious for eating anything and everything, and especially fruit-wise. We do have three grape vines in the garden, which we planted when we moved here in 1992, when I was unaware of the potential danger to a dog of eating grapes.
In the last two years, there have been bunches of grapes within her reach. I was unaware of Pippin eating them until one day when I found grape skins in her faeces. She was not otherwise unwell. Does this mean that the toxin is not present in our grapes? Regardless, I no longer wait for them to ripen but pick them as soon as I find them but she does still help herself to a surreptitious snack when she can.
Why dogs should develop acute renal (kidney) failure from eating grapes, raisins and sultanas when we can eat them safely is still unclear. I have not managed to find an explanation anywhere: the source of the intoxication has not yet been identified and therefore a mechanism of action cannot be formulated. It does seem that a bigger quantity of grapes can be eaten than of raisins before signs of intoxication develop, suggesting that the toxin is more concentrated, present at a higher level, in raisins. A bunch of grapes has been said to be equivalent to a small snack size box of raisins, for example.
There are also conflicting reports on the amount of grapes or raisins which poses a toxic threat. I suspect this relates to the fact that the owner often has no idea how many have been eaten, unless a bunch of grapes has patently gone missing which no human has owned up to eating. This is especially the case if the patient has been helping himself direct from the vine. It does also make one wonder whether the toxic component occurs at highly variable levels, or needs another contributing factor present. As you rightly say, we are not even sure whether it is a substance occurring naturally within the grape or whether it may be something which is applied to the grape. Certainly, we do not apply any chemicals to the vines in our garden.
Sadly, though, dogs have died as a result of acute kidney failure so best advice is to avoid dogs having access to grapes, raisins and sultanas as much as possible.
Alex Campbell, Veterinary Poisons Information Service, advises:
It is a frustrating thing that the mechanism by which grapes, sultanas, raisins and even currants can cause toxicity in dogs and possibly other animals such as cats and ferrets is not fully clear. However, the fact that severe effects and even fatalities occur in some animals and not others, even when the doses ingested have been similar has led some authors to conclude that there may be a component of the fruits whose concentration varies markedly or that the effects may be due to an external compound that may occasionally be present. People have suggested various possibilities including cleaning agents,
pesticides, and heavy metals. Other hypotheses for the toxicity have included tannin intolerance, contamination of the fruit with mycotoxins, sugar overload, ingestion of excess vitamin D or even enzymatic or genetic variances in some animals. None of these have been proven in the published peer-reviewed literature.
What is certain, however, is that in some dogs ingestion of a small number of grapes can result in life-threatening renal failure. The signs of this may not be apparent until it is too late to respond and treat successfully. In a series of 180 cases reported to Veterinary Poisons Information Service (London); 13 dogs died and 4 were euthanased (death rate 10.5%).
The VPIS would advise that dog owners do not feed their animals ANY of these fruits. It is possible that some toxic effects may occur in dogs fed small amounts regularly that may not result in visible clinical signs. If your animal gets hold of the fruits take them to the vet as a matter of urgency.
NOTE: The VPIS is not a public access service and any queries should be referred to your vet in the first instance.
My friend the doctor said that he had looked into this matter and found that it was a chemical which is sprayed on to the grapes during the growing process or during the washing and getting them to the supermarket which is harmful to the dogs - not the grapes themselves! What do you think?
Sarah Morris
Hillingdon, Middlesex
Alison Logan, vet, advises:
The whole question of just how much of a danger grapes pose to dogs has not, to my knowledge, been answered. It was posed in the Dogs Today Think Tank in January 2009 where I described in detail the effects and what treatment can help.
It does concern me, not only as a practising veterinary surgeon but also as a dog-owner because my Lab Pippin is notorious for eating anything and everything, and especially fruit-wise. We do have three grape vines in the garden, which we planted when we moved here in 1992, when I was unaware of the potential danger to a dog of eating grapes.
In the last two years, there have been bunches of grapes within her reach. I was unaware of Pippin eating them until one day when I found grape skins in her faeces. She was not otherwise unwell. Does this mean that the toxin is not present in our grapes? Regardless, I no longer wait for them to ripen but pick them as soon as I find them but she does still help herself to a surreptitious snack when she can.
Why dogs should develop acute renal (kidney) failure from eating grapes, raisins and sultanas when we can eat them safely is still unclear. I have not managed to find an explanation anywhere: the source of the intoxication has not yet been identified and therefore a mechanism of action cannot be formulated. It does seem that a bigger quantity of grapes can be eaten than of raisins before signs of intoxication develop, suggesting that the toxin is more concentrated, present at a higher level, in raisins. A bunch of grapes has been said to be equivalent to a small snack size box of raisins, for example.
There are also conflicting reports on the amount of grapes or raisins which poses a toxic threat. I suspect this relates to the fact that the owner often has no idea how many have been eaten, unless a bunch of grapes has patently gone missing which no human has owned up to eating. This is especially the case if the patient has been helping himself direct from the vine. It does also make one wonder whether the toxic component occurs at highly variable levels, or needs another contributing factor present. As you rightly say, we are not even sure whether it is a substance occurring naturally within the grape or whether it may be something which is applied to the grape. Certainly, we do not apply any chemicals to the vines in our garden.
Sadly, though, dogs have died as a result of acute kidney failure so best advice is to avoid dogs having access to grapes, raisins and sultanas as much as possible.
Alex Campbell, Veterinary Poisons Information Service, advises:
It is a frustrating thing that the mechanism by which grapes, sultanas, raisins and even currants can cause toxicity in dogs and possibly other animals such as cats and ferrets is not fully clear. However, the fact that severe effects and even fatalities occur in some animals and not others, even when the doses ingested have been similar has led some authors to conclude that there may be a component of the fruits whose concentration varies markedly or that the effects may be due to an external compound that may occasionally be present. People have suggested various possibilities including cleaning agents,
pesticides, and heavy metals. Other hypotheses for the toxicity have included tannin intolerance, contamination of the fruit with mycotoxins, sugar overload, ingestion of excess vitamin D or even enzymatic or genetic variances in some animals. None of these have been proven in the published peer-reviewed literature.
What is certain, however, is that in some dogs ingestion of a small number of grapes can result in life-threatening renal failure. The signs of this may not be apparent until it is too late to respond and treat successfully. In a series of 180 cases reported to Veterinary Poisons Information Service (London); 13 dogs died and 4 were euthanased (death rate 10.5%).
The VPIS would advise that dog owners do not feed their animals ANY of these fruits. It is possible that some toxic effects may occur in dogs fed small amounts regularly that may not result in visible clinical signs. If your animal gets hold of the fruits take them to the vet as a matter of urgency.
NOTE: The VPIS is not a public access service and any queries should be referred to your vet in the first instance.
Monday, 27 April 2009
Care when you're not there
We are going on holiday in a couple of months and usually take our two Cairn Terriers along with us, but this time it is not possible. Does anyone have experience of using kennels or petsitters? How would I go about finding a reputable organisation?
Jean Wilson
We would always recommend most strongly that anyone needing a petsitter should choose one who has been registered, vetted, visited and insured, as is the case of all members of The National Association of Registered Petsitters. NARP is the Trade Association for the petsitting industry and is the largest petcare organisation in the UK. NARP has registered more than 10,000 experienced petsitters throughout the country. The Association is not an agency and does not get involved with bookings or any other arrangements.
Many members of NARP are agencies that have been approved and there are also thousands of individual members (many who work with their spouses/partners) to provide the most kind, caring and reliable petcare services which range from boarding dogs/pets while the owners go on holiday, walking dogs while the owners are at work, similarly caring for all other pets from cats to rats to rabbits to birds.
NARP is non profit making and part of the funding of the Association comes from subscriptions to the National Register of Petsitters. However, for readers of Dogs Today NARP offers a FREE subscription to anybody who needs a petsitter.
To find a registered petsitter in your area simply visit www.dogsit.com and follow the links to 'need a Petsitter?' Click the button 'Subscribe' then simply fill in the form, making sure to include your postcode (on which the search will be based). To get your free subscription enter 'dogstoday' into the Promotional Code box at the bottom of the form. You will then see a list of current registered petsitters starting with those closest to you by postcode. The Key will show you which services each member offers. You can then make direct contact with any of the members who offer the service you require and negotiate with them regarding any bookings and payments.
Robin Taylor, Chairman, The National Association of Registered Petsitters (NARP)
A quick search through the internet will bring up a host of kennels and pet sitting orgaisations. It is then a matter of contacting them to see what they can offer and which one gives you the most confidence. Bearing in mind the dogs are valued members of your family, you have to be completely happy with the arrangements made for their care. Do not be afraid to ask questions.
Always visit kennels to make sure they're clean and the that the dogs have some attention and exercise. Be aware that most kennels are not set to give the dogs one-to-one compnay in the same way pet sitters can.
You need to be sure that your pet sitter has back up in case they were unable to undertake the booking for whatever reason, so it is best to use an organisation rather than a single person. Check the back up system, insurance and expenses. It is good to know what percentage the sitter is earning from the total fee and what extras there are. My own opinion is that dogs are much happier in their own homes with a petsitter so that their routine will alter as little as possible. If anything they have more attention than the owner normally has time to give.
Gillie McNicol, Director, Animal Aunts
If you would like to leave her dog with a pet sitter, it is vital you ask whether the pet sitter has valid insurance (public liability
insurance) and whether she has a home boarding licence which is granted by the local authority.
It is a legal requirement for anyone offering a pet boarding service to have a valid licence (which should be displayed in the property). Most local authorities also arrange for a vet to officially inspect the property for suitability.
Unfortunately, too many pet sitters are offering a home boarding service without insurance and an appropriate licence which is compromising the entire pet care profession.
Police disclosure/check certificates and references from customers are also valuable things to look out for. As is membership to a professional body such as Pet Sitters International.
Victoria Reinthal, Managing Director, Paw Pals (UK) Ltd
It’s very sensible to be looking at suitable arrangements for your Cairn Terriers well before your holiday.
When you go away, your dogs will miss you – their human pack. If you remove them from their territory and their human pack, they may suffer significant separation stress. So the kindest and best arrangement you can make is to leave them at home in their familiar environment following their normal routines – ie have a petsitter.
The things I would recommend looking for when selecting a suitable organisation are:
- a company that takes a very full brief from you on the dogs, including feeding and exercise routines, health, medication, temperament, behaviour on encountering other dogs, where they like to sleep (important if they will expect to sleep on the sitter’s bed!), etc
- a company that thoroughly vets its sitters, interviews them in person, investigates their pet experience and recruits
candidates with genuine warmth towards animals. And gets feedback from clients after every assignment to check that the pets were well cared for
- a company that arranges for you to meet your petsitter well before you go away to make sure that you and the dogs like them
- a company that provides full backup ie i) a real live person (not a telephone answering machine) available 24 hrs per day should the sitter require advice and ii) a suitably qualified replacement sitter immediately available should your sitter be
taken ill
- a company with longevity. If an organisation has been around for a good number of years, they must be doing something right and they will have a good reservoir of knowledge and experience in looking after dogs.
Adele Barclay, Managing Director, Homesitters Ltd
Our view is that your dog is always happier in their own home or that of another family where they will receive lots of love, attention and exercise that they would normally get at home.
The clients are happier when they have met the carer and seen the environment where their dog will be staying. If used regularly the dog becomes used to the carer and the new environment and looks forward to their holiday when their owners go away.
Tracey Eden, Franchise Support Manager, Petpals (UK) Ltd
Jean Wilson
We would always recommend most strongly that anyone needing a petsitter should choose one who has been registered, vetted, visited and insured, as is the case of all members of The National Association of Registered Petsitters. NARP is the Trade Association for the petsitting industry and is the largest petcare organisation in the UK. NARP has registered more than 10,000 experienced petsitters throughout the country. The Association is not an agency and does not get involved with bookings or any other arrangements.
Many members of NARP are agencies that have been approved and there are also thousands of individual members (many who work with their spouses/partners) to provide the most kind, caring and reliable petcare services which range from boarding dogs/pets while the owners go on holiday, walking dogs while the owners are at work, similarly caring for all other pets from cats to rats to rabbits to birds.
NARP is non profit making and part of the funding of the Association comes from subscriptions to the National Register of Petsitters. However, for readers of Dogs Today NARP offers a FREE subscription to anybody who needs a petsitter.
To find a registered petsitter in your area simply visit www.dogsit.com and follow the links to 'need a Petsitter?' Click the button 'Subscribe' then simply fill in the form, making sure to include your postcode (on which the search will be based). To get your free subscription enter 'dogstoday' into the Promotional Code box at the bottom of the form. You will then see a list of current registered petsitters starting with those closest to you by postcode. The Key will show you which services each member offers. You can then make direct contact with any of the members who offer the service you require and negotiate with them regarding any bookings and payments.
Robin Taylor, Chairman, The National Association of Registered Petsitters (NARP)
A quick search through the internet will bring up a host of kennels and pet sitting orgaisations. It is then a matter of contacting them to see what they can offer and which one gives you the most confidence. Bearing in mind the dogs are valued members of your family, you have to be completely happy with the arrangements made for their care. Do not be afraid to ask questions.
Always visit kennels to make sure they're clean and the that the dogs have some attention and exercise. Be aware that most kennels are not set to give the dogs one-to-one compnay in the same way pet sitters can.
You need to be sure that your pet sitter has back up in case they were unable to undertake the booking for whatever reason, so it is best to use an organisation rather than a single person. Check the back up system, insurance and expenses. It is good to know what percentage the sitter is earning from the total fee and what extras there are. My own opinion is that dogs are much happier in their own homes with a petsitter so that their routine will alter as little as possible. If anything they have more attention than the owner normally has time to give.
Gillie McNicol, Director, Animal Aunts
If you would like to leave her dog with a pet sitter, it is vital you ask whether the pet sitter has valid insurance (public liability
insurance) and whether she has a home boarding licence which is granted by the local authority.
It is a legal requirement for anyone offering a pet boarding service to have a valid licence (which should be displayed in the property). Most local authorities also arrange for a vet to officially inspect the property for suitability.
Unfortunately, too many pet sitters are offering a home boarding service without insurance and an appropriate licence which is compromising the entire pet care profession.
Police disclosure/check certificates and references from customers are also valuable things to look out for. As is membership to a professional body such as Pet Sitters International.
Victoria Reinthal, Managing Director, Paw Pals (UK) Ltd
It’s very sensible to be looking at suitable arrangements for your Cairn Terriers well before your holiday.
When you go away, your dogs will miss you – their human pack. If you remove them from their territory and their human pack, they may suffer significant separation stress. So the kindest and best arrangement you can make is to leave them at home in their familiar environment following their normal routines – ie have a petsitter.
The things I would recommend looking for when selecting a suitable organisation are:
- a company that takes a very full brief from you on the dogs, including feeding and exercise routines, health, medication, temperament, behaviour on encountering other dogs, where they like to sleep (important if they will expect to sleep on the sitter’s bed!), etc
- a company that thoroughly vets its sitters, interviews them in person, investigates their pet experience and recruits
candidates with genuine warmth towards animals. And gets feedback from clients after every assignment to check that the pets were well cared for
- a company that arranges for you to meet your petsitter well before you go away to make sure that you and the dogs like them
- a company that provides full backup ie i) a real live person (not a telephone answering machine) available 24 hrs per day should the sitter require advice and ii) a suitably qualified replacement sitter immediately available should your sitter be
taken ill
- a company with longevity. If an organisation has been around for a good number of years, they must be doing something right and they will have a good reservoir of knowledge and experience in looking after dogs.
Adele Barclay, Managing Director, Homesitters Ltd
Our view is that your dog is always happier in their own home or that of another family where they will receive lots of love, attention and exercise that they would normally get at home.
The clients are happier when they have met the carer and seen the environment where their dog will be staying. If used regularly the dog becomes used to the carer and the new environment and looks forward to their holiday when their owners go away.
Tracey Eden, Franchise Support Manager, Petpals (UK) Ltd
Friday, 24 April 2009
Which course to take?
Since I've been fostering, dog walking & working as an Instructor's
Assistant at a training school I've been getting more interested in the
behaviour side of dog training. I've learned what I was told was
'aggression' in my own dog was simply perfectly normal terrier behaviour
that I made worse by trying to 'train it out of him' rather than working
with his breed instincts.
I'm also seeing behaviour from some of the 'teenage' young dogs that I
walk (different breeds, genders, and 'sexual' status as well!), which
makes them difficult to have around other dogs (pinning other dogs to
the floor, standing on shoulders) and make it impossible to stop and
chat to other dog owners as 'mine' appear to be beating theirs up! I
would like to know best how to handle this sort of thing, if it's a
'thing' that even needs 'handling', and mainly I would like to know how
not to make mistakes with the many dogs I'm in regular contact with - I
want them to grow up well rounded and be able to advise their owners, as
often this is their first dog and they want to make sure they are doing
things correctly.
So I've been looking at courses and there are so many! We're all told to
make sure we get a qualified trainer or behaviourist, but no-one tells
you which course makes a good trainer at the end of it. It's so
expensive as well if I make a mistake. So far I have been looking at
John Rogerson who has been recommended by more than one behavioural
trainer and I am doing two of his practical courses this year, Compass,
which is mainly distance learning I think, who were recommended by the
behaviourist who helped with my terrier, and do seem to have what I want
to do, and I went to a Sarah Whitehead workshop on Sunday that I saw in
Dogs Today and all of her courses look fabulous, too! I've also heard
good things about Bishop Burton College, although that's a bit far for
the practicals.
I'd like a mix of distance learning with practical as well, and I don't
mind it taking a long time.
Thanks!
Linda
I commend you for the commitment you have clearly shown to improving your knowledge and handling of dogs, even if a couple of your early points have left me a trifle puzzled.
What other ‘side’ to dog training can there be, for instance, other than the ‘behaviour’ one? Because without an ability to understand how dogs think and learn, you can’t teach them anything worthwhile. I’m also intrigued to know how you ‘work with’ the aggressive instincts of a terrier without making these instincts worse?
Aggression may be a ‘normal’ response in terriers, as it is in most dogs—and humans, come to that—given the right trigger. But it is still a socially unacceptable behaviour that rapidly escalates in any individual not better taught to control it. The more dogs are allowed to be aggressive, the more often they want to be aggressive, and the further they are from learning any different or better way to behave.
Similarly, the bullying behaviour shown by the ‘teenage’ dogs you exercise is totally unacceptable. Clearly their owners have not taken the trouble to teach them any better manners around other dogs, and if you cannot learn soon how to properly take charge of dogs like this, and rule the roost, they will only get worse. This in turn, I fear, will attract many complaints from other owners and do nothing for your reputation as a dog walker.
As far as furthering your dog knowledge goes, I’d start with courses—such as those run by Compass—that give you a sound introduction to the canine species as a whole. Ideally you want subjects like the following covered with sufficient authority and depth:
• Where dogs come from as a species, and how they have evolved psychologically and physically over many millennia
• What their typical social behaviour is
• How dogs essentially think and learn
• How dogs communicate and express their feelings/intentions through specific body language
• How the status dynamics of a typical dog pack work
• The basic anatomy and biology of dogs
• Behavioural quirks or characteristics typical of different breeds or breed types
• How different factors in dogs influence their behaviour: I.e. from basic genetic disposition and early rearing environment to diet, medication, illness and ongoing sources of fear or stress
In tandem with such basic theory, you also want to get as much practical and hands on experience of dogs as possible; constantly observing how they interact with each other. Try, too, to attend as many practical courses as possible to watch how different experienced trainers and behaviourists manage dogs.
All the time you are watching such people, however, it is vital to retain an open and questioning mind and keep asking yourself the following:
• Is this person’s approach kind? I.e. it does not involve punishing dogs—physically or verbally—or intimidating and dominating them?
• Does this person show a great ability to communicate with dogs and understand their feelings?
• Can this person explain dogs’ problems to owners in a way that makes total sense to them, as oppose to just spout a lot of theoretical mumbojumbo that goes over their heads?
• Can this person offer solutions to owners that are totally achievable and realistic?
• Do the methods used by this person actually work? I.e. Lead to consistently good results in a wide variety of different cases
Yes to all these questions means you have found a good role model to follow and study with further. Nos to any, on the other hand, mean you are probably dealing with someone less good, experienced or effective.
You ask what course makes a ‘good trainer’. It certainly helps to begin with the right teacher. Over and above this, however, it is never study alone that makes the best dog trainers or behaviourists, but exhaustive experience twinned with an instinctive and natural talent for understanding, reading and handling dogs that they mostly seem to be born with.
You may well discover you have this gift yourself once you begin pushing your own learning and experience further, and I wish you the best of luck in this quest. No time is ever wasted learning more about dogs.
Meanwhile, for a more in-depth explanation of what it takes to be a good canine behaviourist, visit the UK Registry of Canine Behaviourists’ website: www.ukrcb.org
Carol Price, trainer and behaviourist
Assistant at a training school I've been getting more interested in the
behaviour side of dog training. I've learned what I was told was
'aggression' in my own dog was simply perfectly normal terrier behaviour
that I made worse by trying to 'train it out of him' rather than working
with his breed instincts.
I'm also seeing behaviour from some of the 'teenage' young dogs that I
walk (different breeds, genders, and 'sexual' status as well!), which
makes them difficult to have around other dogs (pinning other dogs to
the floor, standing on shoulders) and make it impossible to stop and
chat to other dog owners as 'mine' appear to be beating theirs up! I
would like to know best how to handle this sort of thing, if it's a
'thing' that even needs 'handling', and mainly I would like to know how
not to make mistakes with the many dogs I'm in regular contact with - I
want them to grow up well rounded and be able to advise their owners, as
often this is their first dog and they want to make sure they are doing
things correctly.
So I've been looking at courses and there are so many! We're all told to
make sure we get a qualified trainer or behaviourist, but no-one tells
you which course makes a good trainer at the end of it. It's so
expensive as well if I make a mistake. So far I have been looking at
John Rogerson who has been recommended by more than one behavioural
trainer and I am doing two of his practical courses this year, Compass,
which is mainly distance learning I think, who were recommended by the
behaviourist who helped with my terrier, and do seem to have what I want
to do, and I went to a Sarah Whitehead workshop on Sunday that I saw in
Dogs Today and all of her courses look fabulous, too! I've also heard
good things about Bishop Burton College, although that's a bit far for
the practicals.
I'd like a mix of distance learning with practical as well, and I don't
mind it taking a long time.
Thanks!
Linda
I commend you for the commitment you have clearly shown to improving your knowledge and handling of dogs, even if a couple of your early points have left me a trifle puzzled.
What other ‘side’ to dog training can there be, for instance, other than the ‘behaviour’ one? Because without an ability to understand how dogs think and learn, you can’t teach them anything worthwhile. I’m also intrigued to know how you ‘work with’ the aggressive instincts of a terrier without making these instincts worse?
Aggression may be a ‘normal’ response in terriers, as it is in most dogs—and humans, come to that—given the right trigger. But it is still a socially unacceptable behaviour that rapidly escalates in any individual not better taught to control it. The more dogs are allowed to be aggressive, the more often they want to be aggressive, and the further they are from learning any different or better way to behave.
Similarly, the bullying behaviour shown by the ‘teenage’ dogs you exercise is totally unacceptable. Clearly their owners have not taken the trouble to teach them any better manners around other dogs, and if you cannot learn soon how to properly take charge of dogs like this, and rule the roost, they will only get worse. This in turn, I fear, will attract many complaints from other owners and do nothing for your reputation as a dog walker.
As far as furthering your dog knowledge goes, I’d start with courses—such as those run by Compass—that give you a sound introduction to the canine species as a whole. Ideally you want subjects like the following covered with sufficient authority and depth:
• Where dogs come from as a species, and how they have evolved psychologically and physically over many millennia
• What their typical social behaviour is
• How dogs essentially think and learn
• How dogs communicate and express their feelings/intentions through specific body language
• How the status dynamics of a typical dog pack work
• The basic anatomy and biology of dogs
• Behavioural quirks or characteristics typical of different breeds or breed types
• How different factors in dogs influence their behaviour: I.e. from basic genetic disposition and early rearing environment to diet, medication, illness and ongoing sources of fear or stress
In tandem with such basic theory, you also want to get as much practical and hands on experience of dogs as possible; constantly observing how they interact with each other. Try, too, to attend as many practical courses as possible to watch how different experienced trainers and behaviourists manage dogs.
All the time you are watching such people, however, it is vital to retain an open and questioning mind and keep asking yourself the following:
• Is this person’s approach kind? I.e. it does not involve punishing dogs—physically or verbally—or intimidating and dominating them?
• Does this person show a great ability to communicate with dogs and understand their feelings?
• Can this person explain dogs’ problems to owners in a way that makes total sense to them, as oppose to just spout a lot of theoretical mumbojumbo that goes over their heads?
• Can this person offer solutions to owners that are totally achievable and realistic?
• Do the methods used by this person actually work? I.e. Lead to consistently good results in a wide variety of different cases
Yes to all these questions means you have found a good role model to follow and study with further. Nos to any, on the other hand, mean you are probably dealing with someone less good, experienced or effective.
You ask what course makes a ‘good trainer’. It certainly helps to begin with the right teacher. Over and above this, however, it is never study alone that makes the best dog trainers or behaviourists, but exhaustive experience twinned with an instinctive and natural talent for understanding, reading and handling dogs that they mostly seem to be born with.
You may well discover you have this gift yourself once you begin pushing your own learning and experience further, and I wish you the best of luck in this quest. No time is ever wasted learning more about dogs.
Meanwhile, for a more in-depth explanation of what it takes to be a good canine behaviourist, visit the UK Registry of Canine Behaviourists’ website: www.ukrcb.org
Carol Price, trainer and behaviourist
Wednesday, 22 April 2009
Completely baffled
Are there any prepared diets that are 'complete' but don't contain carbs? I can't see how a wild dog would ever eat carbohydrates. It's not like rice or biscuits grow on trees!
What defines a complete food from a complementary? What am I meant to add to a complementary to make it complete?
Wendy Adam, Bristol
What defines a complete food from a complementary? What am I meant to add to a complementary to make it complete?
Wendy Adam, Bristol
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